ʻO ke ʻano nānā maʻamau no ka lole ʻo ia ka "ʻano helu helu ʻehā". Ma kēia "pālākiō ʻehā", ʻo ka helu kiʻekiʻe no kēlā me kēia hemahema he ʻehā. ʻAʻole e ʻoi aku ka nui o nā hemahema o ka lole, ʻaʻole ʻoi aku ka nui o ka helu kīnā i kēlā me kēia iwilei laina.
Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia kahi unahi ʻehā no nā lole i ulana ʻia, me 1-4 mau helu i unuhi ʻia ma muli o ka nui a me ka paʻakikī o ka hemahema.
Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole?
ʻO ke kūlana o ka helu
1. E loiloi ʻia nā hemahema o ka warp, weft a me nā kuhikuhi ʻē aʻe e like me nā pae hoʻohālike:
Hoʻokahi helu: ʻo 3 ʻīniha ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema
ʻElua mau kiko: ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema ma mua o 3 iniha a emi iho ma lalo o 6 iniha
ʻEkolu mau helu: ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema ma mua o 6 iniha a emi iho ma lalo o 9 iniha
ʻEhā mau helu: ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema ma mua o 9 iniha
2. Ke kumu helu helu o nā hemahema:
A. ʻAʻole ʻoi aku ma mua o 4 mau ʻokoʻa no nā hemahema āpau a me nā weft ma ka pā hoʻokahi.
B. No nā hemahema koʻikoʻi, e helu ʻia kēlā me kēia iwilei o nā hemahema he ʻehā helu. No ka laʻana: E helu ʻia nā puka āpau, nā puka, me ka nānā ʻole i ke anawaena, ʻehā helu.
C. No nā hemahema mau, e like me: nā ʻanuʻu, ka ʻokoʻa o ka ʻaoʻao a me ka ʻaoʻao, ke sila haiki a i ʻole ka laulā lole ʻokoʻa, nā peʻe, ka waihoʻoluʻu ʻole, etc.
D. ʻAʻole e unuhi ʻia nā helu i loko o ka 1″ o ka selvage
E. ʻO ke ʻano o ka warp a i ʻole ka weft, ʻaʻohe mea o ka hemahema, e ʻike ʻia ke kumu, a e unuhi ʻia ka helu kūpono e like me ka helu kīnā.
F. Koe wale no na hooponopono kūikawā (e like me ka uhi ana me ka lipine adhesive), ma ke ano o ka aoao mua wale no o ka lole hina e pono ke nana.
2. Nānā
1. Kaʻina hana laʻana:
1) Nānā AATCC a me nā kūlana laʻana:
A. Ka helu o na laana: e hoonui i ke kumu huinahalike o ka huina iwilei me ka ewalu.
B. Ka helu o nā pahu laʻana: ke kumu huinahā o ka huina o nā pahu.
2) Nā koi laʻana:
ʻO ke koho ʻana i nā pepa e nānā ʻia he ʻokoʻa.
Pono nā wili lole e hōʻike i ka mea nānā i kahi pepa paʻi i ka wā i hoʻopili ʻia ai ka liʻiliʻi o 80% o nā ʻōwili i loko o kahi pūʻulu. E koho ka luna nana i na pepa e nana ia.
Ke koho ka luna nānā i nā ʻōwili e nānā ʻia, ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻololi hou i ka helu o nā ʻōwili e nānā ʻia a i ʻole ka helu o nā ʻōwili i koho ʻia no ka nānā ʻana. I ka wā o ka nānā ʻana, ʻaʻole e lawe ʻia ka iwilei o ka lole mai kekahi ʻōwili koe wale nō ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana a nānā i ke kala.
Ua helu ʻia nā ʻōwili lole a pau i nānā ʻia a nānā ʻia ka helu kīnā.
2. Helu hoao
1) Ka helu ʻana o ka helu
Ma ke kumu, ma hope o ka nānā ʻia ʻana o kēlā me kēia ʻōwili lole, hiki ke hoʻohui ʻia nā helu. A laila, helu ʻia ka papa e like me ke kiʻekiʻe o ka ʻae ʻana, akā no ka mea he ʻokoʻa nā pae ʻae like ʻole o nā sila lole, inā e hoʻohana ʻia kēia ʻano hana e helu ai i ka helu o kēlā me kēia ʻōwili lole no 100 iwilei square, pono e helu ʻia ma ka. 100 iwilei kuea E like me ka helu i kuhikuhi ʻia ma lalo nei, hiki iā ʻoe ke hana i ka loiloi papa no nā sila lole like ʻole.
A = (Nā helu helu x 3600) / (Nā ʻia nā iwilei x Ka laula lole hiki ke ʻoki ʻia) = nā kiko no 100 iwilei huinaha
2) Ka pae ʻae o nā ʻano lole like ʻole
Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā ʻano lole like ʻole i nā ʻano ʻehā
ʻAno | ʻAno lole | Ka helu helu hookahi | Hoʻopiʻi holoʻokoʻa |
Ka lole ulana | |||
ʻO nā lole a pau i hana ʻia e ke kanaka, polyester / Nā Huahana Nilon/Acetate | Pālule, lole i hana ʻia e ke kanaka, huluhulu ino | 20 | 16 |
Denim Kāpena | Pālule Poplin/Oxford kaha ʻoniʻoni a gingham paha, lole milo i hana ʻia e ke kanaka, lole huluhulu, lole ʻoniʻoni a nānā ʻia/nā lole indigo i hoʻoluʻu ʻia, nā lole kūikawā āpau, jacquards/Dobby corduroy/velvet/stretch denim /Artificial Fabrics/Blends | 28 | 20 |
Linen, muslin | Linen, muslin | 40 | 32 |
Silika Dopioni/kilika māmā | Silika Dopioni/kilika māmā | 50 | 40 |
lole hili ʻia | |||
Nā lole a pau i hana ʻia e ke kanaka, polyester/ Nā Huahana Nilon/Acetate | ʻO Rayon, hulu hipa ʻinoʻino, siliki hui ʻia | 20 | 16 |
ʻO nā lole ʻoihana āpau | ʻO ka Jacquard / Dobby corduroy, nā lole wiliwili, nā lole huluhulu, nā ʻili indigo i hoʻoluʻu ʻia, velvet / spandex | 25 | 20 |
Ka lole hili kumu | pulupulu pulupulu/pili pulupulu | 30 | 25 |
Ka lole hili kumu | Ka lole pulupulu kāleka | 40 | 32 |
E helu ʻia kahi ʻōwili lole ma mua o ka helu i ʻōlelo ʻia ma ke ʻano he papa lua.
Inā ʻoi aku ka helu awelika no ka hailona holoʻokoʻa i ka pae helu i ʻōlelo ʻia, e manaʻo ʻia ka hailona ʻaʻole i hāʻule i ka nānā ʻana.
3. Helu Nānā: Nā Manaʻo ʻē aʻe no ka loiloi ʻana i nā papa lole
Nā hemahema i hana hou ʻia:
1), ʻo nā hemahema i hoʻopaʻa hou ʻia a i ʻole ka hoʻihoʻi hou ʻana e lilo i mau hemahema. Pono e hāʻawi ʻia nā helu ʻehā no kēlā me kēia iwilei lole no nā hemahema mau.
2) No ka nui o ka helu hemahema, ʻo kēlā me kēia ʻōwili me ka ʻoi aku ma mua o ʻumi iwilei o ka lole i loaʻa nā kīnā hou e manaʻo ʻia ʻaʻole kūpono.
Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole
Nā hemahema laula piha:
3) ʻAʻole e helu ʻia nā ʻōwili i ʻoi aku ma mua o ʻehā mau hemahema ākea i kēlā me kēia 100y2 ma ke ʻano he huahana papa mua.
4) E manaʻo ʻia nā ʻōwili i ʻoi aku ma mua o hoʻokahi hapa nui i kēlā me kēia 10 iwilei linear ma ka awelika, ʻaʻole pili i ka nui o nā hemahema i loko o 100y.
5) ʻO nā ʻōwili i loaʻa kahi kīnā nui i loko o 3y o ke poʻo lole a i ʻole ka huelo lole e helu ʻia ʻaʻole kūpono. E noʻonoʻo ʻia nā hemahema nui ʻekolu a ʻehā paha.
6) Inā ʻike maopopo ʻia nā kaula ʻākea a paʻa paha ma ka ʻaoʻao hoʻokahi, a i ʻole aia nā nalu, nā wrinkles, nā ʻāpana a i ʻole nā peʻe ma ke kino nui o ka lole, ʻo kēia mau ʻano ke kumu ʻole o ka lole ke wehe ʻia ka lole ma ke ʻano maʻamau. . ʻAʻole hiki ke helu ʻia ia mau puke ma ke ʻano he papa mua.
7) Ke nānā ʻana i kahi ʻōwili lole, e nānā i kona laula ma ʻekolu manawa ma ka mua, waena, a me ka hopena. Inā kokoke ka laulā o ka ʻōwili lole i ka laulā liʻiliʻi i ʻōlelo ʻia a ʻaʻole like ka laulā o ka lole, a laila pono e hoʻonui ʻia ka helu o ka nānā ʻana no ka laulā o ka ʻōwili.
8) Inā emi ka laulā o ka ʻōwili ma mua o ka laulā kūʻai liʻiliʻi i ʻōlelo ʻia, e manaʻo ʻia ka ʻōwili ʻaʻole kūpono.
9) No nā lole i ulana ʻia, inā he 1 ʻīniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laulā kūʻai i ʻōlelo ʻia, e manaʻo ʻia ka ʻōwili ʻaʻole kūpono. Eia nō naʻe, no ka lole ulana elastic, ʻoiai inā he 2 iniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laula i kuhikuhi ʻia, hiki ke kūpono. No nā lole i ulana ʻia, inā he 2 iniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laulā kūʻai i ʻōlelo ʻia, e hōʻole ʻia ka ʻōwili. Eia naʻe, no ka lole i ulana ʻia, ʻoiai inā he 3 iniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laula i ʻōlelo ʻia, hiki ke manaʻo ʻia he ʻae ʻia.
10) ʻO ka laula holoʻokoʻa o ka lole e pili ana i ka mamao mai ka selvage waho ma kekahi ʻaoʻao a i ka selvage waho ma kekahi ʻaoʻao.
ʻO ka laulā lole hiki ke ʻoki ʻia ʻo ia ka laula i ana ʻia me ka ʻole o nā pūnaʻi ponoʻī a/a i ʻole humuhumu, paʻi ʻole ʻia, ʻaʻole i uhi ʻia a i ʻole nā ʻāpana ʻili i mālama ʻole ʻia o ke kino lole.
Loiloi ʻokoʻa kala:
11) ʻAʻole e emi ka ʻokoʻa kala ma waena o nā ʻōwili a me nā ʻōwili, nā pūʻulu a me nā puʻupuʻu ma mua o nā pae ʻehā i ka unahi hina AATCC.
12) I ka wā o ka nānā ʻana i ka lole, e lawe i 6 ~ 10 ʻīniha ākea nā papa lole ʻokoʻa mai kēlā me kēia ʻōwili, e hoʻohana ka mea nānā i kēia mau ʻili lole e hoʻohālikelike i ka ʻokoʻa kala i loko o ka ʻōwili like a i ʻole ka ʻokoʻa kala ma waena o nā ʻōwili like ʻole.
13) ʻAʻole e emi ka ʻokoʻa o ka waihoʻoluʻu ma waena o ka ʻaoʻao, ka ʻaoʻao-i-waena a i ʻole ka huelo poʻo a me ka lole lole i loko o ka ʻōwili like ma mua o ka pae ʻehā o ka unahi hina AATCC. No nā ʻōwili i nānā ʻia, e helu ʻia kēlā me kēia iwilei o ka lole me nā hemahema ʻokoʻa like ʻole i ʻehā helu no ka iwilei.
14) Inā ʻaʻole kūlike ka lole e nānā ʻia me nā laʻana i ʻāpono ʻia i hāʻawi ʻia ma mua, pono e emi kona ʻokoʻa kala ma mua o ka pae 4-5 ma ka pākaukau hina hina, inā ʻaʻole e manaʻo ʻia kēia pūʻulu o nā waiwai he kūpono ʻole.
Ka lōʻihi o ka ʻōwili:
15) Inā hoʻokaʻawale ka lōʻihi maoli o ka ʻōwili hoʻokahi ma mua o 2% mai ka lōʻihi i hōʻike ʻia ma ka lepili, e manaʻo ʻia ka ʻōwili ʻaʻole kūpono. No nā ʻōwili me ka loaʻa ʻana o ka lōʻihi o ka ʻōwili, ʻaʻole i loiloi ʻia ko lākou mau hemahema, akā pono e hōʻike ʻia ma ka hōʻike nānā.
16) Inā hoʻokaʻawale ka huina o nā lōʻihi o nā laʻana like ʻole ma ka 1% a ʻoi aʻe paha mai ka lōʻihi i hōʻike ʻia ma ka lepili, e manaʻo ʻia ka pūʻulu holoʻokoʻa ʻaʻole kūpono.
ʻāpana hui:
17) No nā lole i ulana ʻia, hiki ke hoʻopili ʻia ka ʻōwili lole holoʻokoʻa e nā ʻāpana he nui, ke ʻole i ʻōlelo ʻia ma ka ʻaelike kūʻai, inā loaʻa i kahi ʻōwili lole kahi ʻāpana hui me ka lōʻihi ma lalo o 40y, e hoʻoholo ʻia ka ʻōwili. ʻaʻole kūpono.
No nā lole i ulana ʻia, hiki ke hana ʻia ka ʻōwili holoʻokoʻa me nā ʻāpana he nui i hui ʻia, ke ʻole i kuhikuhi ʻia i loko o ka ʻaelike kūʻai, inā loaʻa i kahi ʻōwili kahi ʻāpana i hui ʻia ma lalo o 30 paona ke kaumaha, e helu ʻia ka ʻōwili ma ke ʻano he kūpono ʻole.
Weft oblique and bow weft:
18) No nā lole i ulana ʻia a i ulana ʻia, nā lole i paʻi ʻia a i ʻole nā lole ʻōniʻoniʻo me ka ʻoi aku o 2% o ka weft a me nā ʻāpana diagonal; a ʻaʻole hiki ke helu ʻia nā lole ʻino a pau me ka 3% skew ma ke ʻano he papa mua.
E ʻoki i ka lole ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka weft, a e hoʻāʻo e hoʻopili i ka ʻaoʻao o ka piko o ka weft e like me ka hiki;
Wehe pakahi i na wili weft;
A hiki i ka huki ʻana i ka weft piha;
Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole
E pelu i ka hapalua ma ka lauwili, me ka pulupulu o na kihi, a ana i ka mamao ma waena o ka lae kiekie a me ka lae haahaa.
Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole
19) No nā lole i ulana ʻia, ʻaʻole hiki ke helu ʻia nā lole wili a pau i paʻi ʻia ma mua o 3% i ka papa mua.
No nā lole i ulana ʻia, ʻaʻole hiki ke helu ʻia nā lole wick āpau a me nā lole i paʻi ʻia me ka skew i ʻoi aku ma mua o 5% i nā huahana papa mua.
Honi lole:
21) ʻAʻole e hala nā ʻōwili a pau e hoʻopuka i ka ʻala.
Hole:
22), ma o nā hemahema e alakaʻi ai i ka pōʻino o ka lole, ʻaʻohe mea nui o ka pōʻino, pono e helu ʻia he 4 mau helu. Pono e komo i loko o ka lua ʻelua a ʻoi aʻe nā wili naha.
Manaʻo:
23) E nānā i ka manaʻo o ka lole ma ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana me ka hāpana kuhikuhi. Inā loaʻa kahi ʻokoʻa nui, e helu ʻia ka ʻōwili ma ke ʻano he papa ʻelua, me ka helu o 4 no ka iwilei. Inā ʻaʻole hiki i ka manaʻo o nā ʻōwili āpau i ke kiʻekiʻe o ka laʻana kuhikuhi, e hoʻokuʻu ʻia ka nānā ʻana a ʻaʻole e loiloi ʻia ka helu no kekahi manawa.
ʻAiʻa:
24) Ma ka nānā piha ʻana, ʻae ʻia ʻelua mau nānā ʻana, a ʻae ʻia ʻo ± 5%, i ʻole e manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia ʻaʻole kūpono (ʻoiai ʻaʻole pili i ka ʻōnaehana 4-point, pono e hoʻopaʻa ʻia).
Kalima kaumaha:
25) I ke kaʻina hana nānā piha, ʻae ʻia ma ka liʻiliʻi ʻelua mau nānā (me ka mahana a me ka haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa), a ʻae ʻia ka ± 5%, i ʻole e manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia he huahana substandard (ʻoiai ʻaʻole pili i ka ʻōnaehana ʻehā. , pono e hoʻopaʻa ʻia).
Reel, nā mea e pono ai ka paʻi:
1) ʻAʻohe koi kūikawā, ma kahi o 100 iwilei ka lōʻihi a ʻaʻole ʻoi aku ma mua o 150 paona ke kaumaha.
2) ʻAʻohe koi kūikawā, pono e hoʻokuʻu ʻia, a ʻaʻole pono e hōʻino ʻia ka pahu pepa i ka wā o ka lawe ʻana.
3) ʻO 1.5 ″-2.0 ″ ke anawaena o ka paipu pepa.
4) Ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua o ka lole ʻōwili, ʻaʻole pono ka ʻāpana i ʻike ʻia ma mua o 1".
5) Ma mua o ka ʻōwili ʻana i ka lole, e hoʻoponopono iā ia ma ka ʻaoʻao hema, waena a me nā wahi ʻākau me ka lipine paʻa ma lalo o 4″.
6) Ma hope o ka ʻōwili, i mea e pale ai i ka wehe ʻana o ka ʻōwili, e hoʻopili i ka lipine 12″ e hoʻoponopono i nā wahi 4.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Iulai-19-2022