01. Dab tsi yog shrinkage
Cov ntaub yog cov ntaub fibers, thiab tom qab cov fibers lawv tus kheej nqus dej, lawv yuav muaj qee qhov kev o, uas yog, txo qhov ntev thiab qhov loj ntawm txoj kab uas hla. Qhov feem pua ntawm qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub ua ntej thiab tom qab muab tso rau hauv dej thiab nws qhov ntev yog feem ntau hu ua tus nqi shrinkage. Lub zog nqus dej muaj peev xwm, qhov hnyav dua qhov o, qhov siab dua qhov shrinkage tus nqi, thiab qhov tsis zoo ntawm qhov ruaj khov ntawm cov ntaub.
Qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub nws tus kheej yog qhov txawv ntawm qhov ntev ntawm cov xov paj (silk) siv, thiab qhov sib txawv ntawm ob feem ntau yog sawv cev los ntawm kev sib tw weaving.
Shrinkage tus nqi (%) = [yarn (silk) xov ntev - ntaub ntev] / ntaub ntev
Tom qab muab tso rau hauv dej, vim qhov o ntawm cov fibers lawv tus kheej, qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub yog ntxiv luv, uas ua rau shrinkage. Lub shrinkage tus nqi ntawm ib daim ntaub sib txawv nyob ntawm seb nws weaving shrinkage tus nqi. Lub weaving shrinkage tus nqi sib txawv nyob ntawm seb lub koom haum tsim thiab weaving nro ntawm cov ntaub nws tus kheej. Thaum qhov nro ntawm cov ntaub yog tsawg, cov ntaub yog nruj thiab tuab, thiab tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub yog siab, qhov shrinkage tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub yog me me; Thaum lub nro yog siab heev, cov ntaub yuav xoob, lub teeb yuag, thiab tus nqi shrinkage yog tsawg, uas ua rau lub siab shrinkage tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub. Nyob rau hauv dyeing thiab xov, thiaj li yuav txo tau lub shrinkage tus nqi ntawm fabrics, ua ntej shrinkage xov yog feem ntau siv los ua kom lub weft ceev, ua ntej nce cov ntaub shrinkage tus nqi, thiab yog li txo tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub.
02 ib.Yog vim li cas rau ntaub shrinkage
Cov laj thawj rau cov ntaub shrinkage muaj xws li:
Thaum lub sij hawm spinning, weaving, thiab dyeing, cov xov paj fibers nyob rau hauv cov ntaub elongate los yog deform vim sab nraud quab yuam. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, cov xov paj fibers thiab cov qauv ntaub ua kom muaj kev ntxhov siab sab hauv. Nyob rau hauv lub xeev static qhuav so, zoo li qub ntub dej so lub xeev, los yog dynamic ntub so lub xeev, sib txawv qib ntawm kev ntxhov siab sab hauv raug tso tawm los kho cov xov paj fibers thiab ntaub rau lawv thawj lub xeev.
Cov fibers sib txawv thiab lawv cov ntaub muaj ntau qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov shrinkage, feem ntau yog nyob ntawm cov yam ntxwv ntawm lawv cov fibers - hydrophilic fibers muaj ntau dua qhov shrinkage, xws li paj rwb, linen, viscose thiab lwm yam fibers; Txawm li cas los xij, hydrophobic fibers muaj tsawg shrinkage, xws li hluavtaws fibers.
Thaum cov fibers nyob rau hauv ib lub xeev ntub, lawv swell nyob rau hauv qhov kev txiav txim ntawm immersion, ua rau lub cheeb ntawm cov fibers nce. Piv txwv li, ntawm cov ntaub, qhov no ua rau lub vojvoog curvature ntawm cov fibers ntawm cov ntsiab lus sib cuam tshuam ntawm cov ntaub kom nce, uas ua rau qhov ntev ntawm cov ntaub. Piv txwv li, paj rwb fibers swell nyob rau hauv qhov kev txiav txim ntawm dej, ua rau lawv cross-sectional cheeb tsam los ntawm 40-50% thiab ntev los ntawm 1-2%, thaum hluavtaws fibers feem ntau pom thermal shrinkage, xws li boiling dej shrinkage, nyob ib ncig ntawm 5%.
Nyob rau hauv cov cua kub, cov duab thiab qhov loj ntawm textile fibers hloov thiab ntsws, tab sis lawv tsis tuaj yeem rov qab mus rau lawv lub xeev thawj zaug tom qab txias, uas yog hu ua fiber thermal shrinkage. Qhov feem pua ntawm qhov ntev ua ntej thiab tom qab thermal shrinkage yog hu ua thermal shrinkage tus nqi, uas feem ntau qhia raws li qhov feem pua ntawm fiber ntau shrinkage nyob rau hauv boiling dej ntawm 100 ℃; Nws kuj tseem tuaj yeem ntsuas qhov feem pua ntawm cov shrinkage hauv cov cua kub siab tshaj 100 ℃ siv txoj kev cua kub, los yog ntsuas qhov feem pua ntawm cov shrinkage nyob rau hauv chav siab tshaj 100 ℃ siv txoj kev chav. Kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov fibers sib txawv raws li qhov sib txawv xws li cov qauv sab hauv, cua sov, thiab lub sijhawm. Piv txwv li, thaum ua cov polyester staple fibers, lub boiling dej shrinkage tus nqi yog 1%, lub boiling dej shrinkage tus nqi ntawm vinylon yog 5%, thiab cov cua kub shrinkage tus nqi ntawm chloroprene yog 50%. Qhov seem stability ntawm fibers nyob rau hauv textile ua thiab fabrics yog zoo sib xws, muab qee lub hauv paus rau kev tsim cov txheej txheem tom ntej.
03.Shrinkage tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub sib txawv
Los ntawm qhov kev xav ntawm shrinkage tus nqi, qhov tsawg tshaj plaws yog cov hluavtaws fibers thiab cov ntaub sib xyaw ua ke, ua raws li cov ntaub plaub thiab cov ntaub linen, cov ntaub paj rwb hauv nruab nrab, cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav nrog cov shrinkage loj, thiab qhov loj tshaj plaws yog cov viscose fibers, paj rwb dag, thiab cov ntaub plaub tsiaj.
Tus nqi shrinkage ntawm cov ntaub dav dav yog:
Paj rwb 4% -10%;
Tshuaj fiber ntau 4% -8%;
Paj rwb polyester 3.5% -55%;
3% rau daim ntaub dawb;
3% -4% rau wool xiav ntaub;
Poplin yog 3-4%;
paj ntaub yog 3-3.5%;
Twill ntaub yog 4%;
Cov ntaub ntawv ua haujlwm yog 10%;
Artificial paj rwb yog 10%
04 ib.Yam cuam tshuam rau tus nqi shrinkage
Raw khoom: Tus nqi shrinkage ntawm fabrics txawv nyob ntawm seb cov khoom siv raw. Feem ntau hais lus, fibers uas muaj qhov nqus dej siab yuav nthuav dav, nce hauv txoj kab uas hla, luv luv hauv qhov ntev, thiab muaj tus nqi qis dua tom qab muab tso rau hauv dej. Yog tias qee cov viscose fibers muaj qhov nqus dej txog li 13%, thaum cov ntaub hluavtaws fiber ntau muaj qhov nqus dej tsis zoo, lawv qhov shrinkage tsawg.
Ceev: Tus nqi shrinkage txawv nyob ntawm seb qhov ntom ntawm cov ntaub. Yog hais tias cov longitudinal thiab latitudinal ntom zoo sib xws, lawv cov longitudinal thiab latitudinal shrinkage tus nqi kuj zoo sib xws. Ib daim ntaub uas muaj kev kub ntxhov siab yuav muaj ntau dua warp shrinkage, thaum cov ntaub nrog ntau dua weft ntom dua warp ntom yuav muaj ntau dua weft shrinkage.
Cov xov tooj suav thickness: Lub shrinkage tus nqi ntawm fabrics txawv nyob ntawm seb lub thickness ntawm cov xov tooj. Cov khaub ncaws nrog cov xov paj ntxhib suav muaj qhov shrinkage ntau dua, thaum cov ntaub nrog cov xov paj zoo suav tau qis dua.
Cov txheej txheem ntau lawm: Cov txheej txheem tsim cov ntaub sib txawv ua rau sib txawv shrinkage tus nqi. Feem ntau hais lus, thaum lub sij hawm weaving thiab dyeing thiab tiav cov txheej txheem ntawm fabrics, fibers yuav tsum tau stretched ntau zaus, thiab lub sij hawm ua yog ntev. Lub shrinkage tus nqi ntawm fabrics nrog siab thov nro yog siab dua, thiab vice versa.
Fiber muaj pes tsawg leeg: Cov nroj tsuag ntuj fibers (xws li paj rwb thiab linen) thiab regenerated cog fibers (xws li viscose) yog feem ntau prone rau noo noo nqus thiab expansion piv rau hluavtaws fibers (xws li polyester thiab acrylic), uas ua rau ib tug ntau dua shrinkage tus nqi. Ntawm qhov tod tes, cov ntaub plaub yog qhov yooj yim rau kev hnov qab vim cov qauv ntsuas ntawm cov fiber ntau, uas cuam tshuam rau nws qhov kev ruaj ntseg.
Npuag qauv: Feem ntau, qhov ruaj khov ntawm cov ntaub npuag yog zoo dua li cov ntaub knitted; Qhov seem stability ntawm high-density fabrics yog zoo dua li ntawm tsawg-density fabrics. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub woven, qhov shrinkage tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub weave yog feem ntau qis dua li ntawm flannel fabrics; Hauv cov ntaub knitted, qhov shrinkage tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub knitted yog qis dua li ntawm cov ntaub ribbed.
Kev tsim khoom thiab ua cov txheej txheem: Vim qhov tsis tuaj yeem ncab ntawm cov ntaub los ntawm lub tshuab thaum dyeing, luam ntawv, thiab xov, nro tshwm sim ntawm cov ntaub. Txawm li cas los xij, cov ntaub tuaj yeem yooj yim txo qhov nro thaum raug dej, yog li peb yuav pom tias shrinkage tom qab ntxuav. Hauv cov txheej txheem ua tau zoo, peb feem ntau siv ua ntej shrinkage los daws qhov teeb meem no.
Kev tu cov txheej txheem ntxuav: Ntxuav tu muaj xws li ntxuav, ziab, thiab ironing, txhua yam yuav cuam tshuam rau shrinkage ntawm ntaub. Piv txwv li, cov qauv ntxuav tes muaj kev ruaj ntseg zoo dua li cov qauv ntxuav tshuab, thiab qhov kub thiab txias kuj cuam tshuam rau lawv qhov ruaj khov. Feem ntau hais lus, qhov kub siab dua, qhov tsis zoo ntawm qhov ruaj khov.
Txoj kev ziab ntawm cov qauv kuj tseem muaj feem cuam tshuam rau lub shrinkage ntawm cov ntaub. Cov txheej txheem ziab qhuav feem ntau suav nrog drip drying, hlau mesh kis, dai kom qhuav, thiab rotary nruas ziab. Txoj kev drip drying muaj qhov cuam tshuam tsawg tshaj plaws ntawm qhov loj ntawm cov ntaub, thaum lub tshuab ziab khaub ncaws muaj qhov cuam tshuam loj tshaj plaws ntawm qhov loj ntawm cov ntaub, nrog rau ob qho tib si hauv nruab nrab.
Tsis tas li ntawd, xaiv qhov tsim nyog ironing kub raws li qhov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm cov ntaub tuaj yeem txhim kho qhov shrinkage ntawm cov ntaub. Piv txwv li, paj rwb thiab linen fabrics tuaj yeem txhim kho lawv qhov kev txo qis ntawm qhov kub thiab txias. Tab sis nws tsis yog tias qhov kub siab dua yog qhov zoo dua. Rau cov hluavtaws fibers, kub-kub ironing tsis tsuas yog tsis tuaj yeem txhim kho lawv cov shrinkage, tab sis kuj tuaj yeem ua rau lawv cov kev ua tau zoo, xws li ua rau cov ntaub tawv thiab nkig.
Cov kev tshuaj xyuas feem ntau siv rau cov ntaub shrinkage muaj xws li qhuav steaming thiab ntxuav.
Kev tshuaj xyuas dej ntxuav ua piv txwv, cov txheej txheem kev kuaj xyuas thiab cov txheej txheem yog raws li hauv qab no:
Sampling: Nqa cov qauv los ntawm tib lub pob ntawm cov ntaub, yam tsawg 5 meters deb ntawm lub taub hau ntaub. Cov qauv ntaub xaiv yuav tsum tsis txhob muaj qhov tsis xws luag uas cuam tshuam rau cov txiaj ntsig. Cov qauv yuav tsum tsim nyog rau kev ntxuav dej, nrog qhov dav ntawm 70cm txog 80cm square blocks. Tom qab ntuj tso rau 3 teev, tso 50cm * 50cm qauv rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm cov ntaub, thiab tom qab ntawd siv lub thawv taub hau cwj mem los kos kab ncig ntawm ntug.
Qauv kos duab: Muab cov qauv tso rau ntawm qhov chaw tiaj tus, du tawm cov creases thiab irregularities, tsis txhob ncab, thiab tsis txhob siv quab yuam thaum kos kab kom tsis txhob txav mus.
Cov qauv ntxuav dej: Txhawm rau kom tsis txhob muaj xim ntawm qhov chaw cim tom qab ntxuav, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog los xaws (ob txheej knitted ntaub, ib txheej woven ntaub). Thaum xaws, tsuas yog sab warp thiab latitude sab ntawm knitted ntaub yuav tsum sewn, thiab cov ntaub ntaub yuav tsum sewn rau tag nrho plaub sab nrog elasticity tsim nyog. Coarse los yog tawg yooj yim ntaub yuav tsum tau edged nrog peb threads ntawm tag nrho plaub sab. Tom qab cov qauv tsheb tau npaj lawm, muab tso rau hauv dej sov ntawm 30 degrees Celsius, ntxuav nws nrog lub tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws, ziab nrog lub tshuab ziab khaub ncaws lossis cua kom qhuav nws ib txwm, thiab txias kom huv si rau 30 feeb ua ntej ntsuas qhov tseeb.
Kev suav: Shrinkage tus nqi = (loj ua ntej ntxuav - loj tom qab ntxuav) / loj ua ntej ntxuav x 100%. Feem ntau, qhov shrinkage tus nqi ntawm cov ntaub hauv ob qho tib si warp thiab weft cov lus qhia yuav tsum tau ntsuas.
Post lub sij hawm: Apr-09-2024