Txoj kev tshuaj ntsuam xyuas rau daim ntaub yog "plaub-point scoring method". Hauv qhov "plaub-point scale", qhov siab tshaj plaws rau ib qho tsis xws luag yog plaub. Txawm hais tias muaj pes tsawg qhov tsis xws luag hauv daim ntaub, qhov tsis xws luag ntawm ib qho kev sib tw yuav tsum tsis pub tshaj plaub lub ntsiab lus.
Ib qho plaub-point nplai tuaj yeem siv rau cov ntaub npuag knitted, nrog 1-4 cov ntsiab lus txiav tawm nyob ntawm qhov loj thiab qhov hnyav ntawm qhov tsis xws luag.
Yuav ua li cas siv plaub-point system los ua kev soj ntsuam ntawm textile fabrics?
Tus qauv ntawm cov qhab nia
1. Qhov tsis xws luag ntawm warp, weft thiab lwm yam kev taw qhia yuav raug soj ntsuam raws li cov hauv qab no:
Ib qho taw qhia: qhov tsis xws luag ntev yog 3 ntiv tes lossis tsawg dua
Ob lub ntsiab lus: qhov tsis xws luag ntev yog ntau dua 3 ntiv tes thiab tsawg dua 6 ntiv tes
Peb lub ntsiab lus: qhov ntev ntawm qhov tsis xws luag yog ntau dua 6 ntiv tes thiab tsawg dua 9 ntiv tes
Plaub lub ntsiab lus: qhov tsis xws luag ntev yog ntau dua 9 ntiv tes
2. Lub ntsiab lus qhab nia ntawm qhov tsis xws luag:
A. Kev txiav tawm rau txhua qhov kev sib tsoo thiab qhov tsis xws luag hauv tib lub vaj yuav tsum tsis pub tshaj 4 lub ntsiab lus.
B. Rau qhov tsis xws luag, txhua qhov chaw ntawm qhov tsis xws luag yuav raug ntsuas raws li plaub lub ntsiab lus. Piv txwv li: Txhua qhov, qhov, tsis hais txoj kab uas hla, yuav raug ntsuas plaub lub ntsiab lus.
C. Rau qhov tsis xws luag tsis tu ncua, xws li: rungs, ntug-rau-ntug xim sib txawv, nqaim foob lossis tsis xwm yeem daim ntaub dav, creases, tsis sib luag dyeing, thiab lwm yam., txhua qhov chaw ntawm qhov tsis xws luag yuav tsum tau ntsuas raws li plaub lub ntsiab lus.
D. Tsis muaj cov ntsiab lus yuav raug txiav tawm hauv 1 "ntawm selvage
E. Txawm hais tias qhov warp lossis weft, txawm li cas los xij, tsis muaj qhov tsis xws luag, lub hauv paus ntsiab lus yuav tsum pom, thiab cov qhab nia raug yuav raug txiav tawm raws li qhov tsis xws luag.
F. Tsuas yog cov kev cai tshwj xeeb (xws li txheej nrog cov nplaum nplaum), feem ntau tsuas yog sab pem hauv ntej ntawm cov ntaub grey yuav tsum tau kuaj xyuas.
2. Kev tshuaj xyuas
1. Cov txheej txheem coj mus kuaj:
1) AATCC soj ntsuam thiab kuaj cov qauv:
A. Tus naj npawb ntawm cov qauv: muab lub hauv paus square ntawm tag nrho cov yards los ntawm yim.
B. Tus naj npawb ntawm cov thawv sampling: lub hauv paus square ntawm tag nrho cov thawv.
2) Sampling xav tau:
Kev xaiv ntawm cov ntaub ntawv yuav raug tshuaj xyuas yog tag nrho random.
Textile mills yuav tsum tau ua kom pom cov neeg soj ntsuam cov ntawv ntim khoom thaum tsawg kawg 80% ntawm cov yob hauv ib pawg tau ntim. Tus kws tshuaj ntsuam xyuas yuav xaiv cov ntaub ntawv los tshuaj xyuas.
Thaum tus neeg soj ntsuam tau xaiv cov yob los kuaj xyuas, tsis tuaj yeem hloov kho ntxiv rau cov lej ntawm cov yob yuav raug tshuaj xyuas lossis tus lej ntawm cov yob uas tau xaiv rau kev tshuaj xyuas. Thaum kuaj xyuas, tsis muaj yardage ntawm cov ntaub yuav tsum raug coj los ntawm ib qho yob tsuas yog sau thiab kos xim.
Tag nrho cov yob ntawm daim ntaub uas raug tshuaj xyuas yog muab qhab nia thiab cov qhab nia tsis raug raug ntsuas.
2. Cov qhab nia xeem
1) Kev suav cov qhab nia
Hauv txoj cai, tom qab txhua daim ntaub tau raug tshuaj xyuas, cov qhab nia tuaj yeem raug ntxiv. Tom qab ntawd, qib raug ntsuas raws li qib kev lees paub, tab sis txij li cov ntaub ntawv sib txawv yuav tsum muaj qib kev lees paub sib txawv, yog tias siv cov qauv hauv qab no los xam cov qhab nia ntawm txhua daim ntaub ntawm 100 square yards, nws tsuas yog yuav tsum tau muab xam ntawm 100 square yards Raws li cov qhab nia hauv qab no, koj tuaj yeem ua qhov kev ntsuas qib rau cov ntaub sib txawv.
A = (Tag nrho cov ntsiab lus x 3600) / (Yards tshuaj xyuas x Cutable fabric width) = cov ntsiab lus rau 100 square yards
2) Kev lees txais qib ntawm cov ntaub ntawv sib txawv
Cov ntaub sib txawv tau muab faib ua plaub pawg hauv qab no
Hom | Hom ntaub | Ib Volume Scoring | Tag nrho kev thuam |
Woven ntaub | |||
Txhua tus txiv neej ua ntaub, polyester / Nylon / Acetate khoom | Shirting, man-made fabrics, worsted wool | 20 | 16 |
DenimCanvas | Poplin / Oxford striped los yog gingham tsho, spun man-made fabrics, woolen fabrics, striped los yog check fabrics / dyed indigo yarns, tag nrho cov tshwj xeeb fabrics, jacquards / Dobby corduroy / velvet / stretch denim / Artificial Fabrics / Blends | 28 | 20 |
Linen, muslin | Linen, muslin | 40 | 32 |
Dopioni silk / light silk | Dopioni silk / light silk | 50 | 40 |
Knitted ntaub | |||
Txhua tus txiv neej ua ntaub, polyester / Nylon / Acetate khoom | Rayon, worsted wool, blended silk | 20 | 16 |
Txhua yam ntaub ntawv tshaj lij | Jacquard / Dobby corduroy, spun rayon, woolen textiles, dyed indigo yarn, velvet / spandex | 25 | 20 |
Basic knitted ntaub | Combed paj rwb / blended paj rwb | 30 | 25 |
Basic knitted ntaub | Carded paj rwb ntaub | 40 | 32 |
Ib daim ntaub yob ntau tshaj qhov tau teev tseg yuav tsum muab cais ua ob chav kawm.
Yog tias qhov qhab nia nruab nrab rau tag nrho ntau tshaj qhov qhab nia tau teev tseg, qhov ntau yuav tsum raug suav tias ua tsis tiav qhov kev tshuaj xyuas.
3. Cov qhab-nees soj ntsuam: Lwm yam kev txiav txim siab rau kev ntsuas cov qib ntaub
Rov qab flaws:
1), ib qho kev rov ua dua lossis rov ua dua tshiab yuav ua rau rov ua dua. Plaub lub ntsiab lus yuav tsum tau muab tsub rau txhua qhov chaw ntawm daim ntaub kom rov ua qhov tsis xws luag.
2) Txawm tias qhov tsis xws luag yog dab tsi, ib qho yob uas muaj ntau tshaj kaum yards ntawm daim ntaub uas muaj qhov tsis xws luag yuav tsum suav tias yog tsis tsim nyog.
Yuav ua li cas siv plaub-point system los ua kev soj ntsuam ntawm textile fabrics
Tag nrho qhov dav qhov tsis xws luag:
3) Rolls uas muaj ntau tshaj plaub qhov dav-dav tsis xws luag hauv txhua 100y2 yuav tsum tsis txhob raug ntsuas raws li cov khoom lag luam thawj zaug.
4) Cov yob uas muaj ntau tshaj ib qho tsis xws luag ntawm 10 linear yards ntawm qhov nruab nrab yuav suav hais tias tsis tsim nyog, txawm tias muaj pes tsawg qhov tsis xws luag hauv 100y.
5) Cov yob uas muaj qhov tsis xws luag nyob rau hauv 3y ntawm lub taub hau ntawm daim ntaub los yog daim ntaub npuag yuav tsum raug ntsuas raws li qhov tsis tsim nyog. Cov teeb meem loj yuav raug suav hais tias yog peb lossis plaub lub ntsiab lus.
6) Yog tias daim ntaub muaj cov xov xoob xoob lossis nruj ntawm ib qho selvedge, lossis muaj ripples, wrinkles, creases lossis creases ntawm lub cev tseem ceeb ntawm daim ntaub, cov xwm txheej no ua rau daim ntaub tsis sib xws thaum daim ntaub nthuav tawm raws li ib txwm muaj. . Cov ntim zoo li no tsis tuaj yeem muab qhab nia li thawj chav kawm.
7) Thaum kuaj ib daim ntaub yob, xyuas nws qhov dav tsawg kawg peb zaug ntawm qhov pib, nruab nrab, thiab xaus. Yog hais tias qhov dav ntawm ib daim ntaub yob ze rau qhov tsawg kawg nkaus qhov dav lossis qhov dav ntawm daim ntaub tsis sib xws, ces tus naj npawb ntawm kev soj ntsuam rau qhov dav ntawm yob yuav tsum tau nce ntxiv.
8) Yog tias qhov dav yob tsawg dua qhov kev yuav khoom tsawg kawg nkaus, lub yob yuav raug suav tias tsis tsim nyog.
9) Rau cov ntaub npuag, yog tias qhov dav yog 1 nti dav dua li qhov dav yuav khoom, yob yuav raug suav tias tsis tsim nyog. Txawm li cas los xij, rau cov ntaub qhwv elastic, txawm tias nws yog 2 ntiv tes dav dua li qhov dav dav, nws tuaj yeem tsim nyog. Rau cov ntaub knitted, yog tias qhov dav yog 2 ntiv tes dav dua li qhov dav yuav khoom, yob yuav raug tso tseg. Txawm li cas los xij, rau cov thav duab knitted npuag, txawm tias nws yog 3 ntiv tes dav dua li qhov dav dav, nws tuaj yeem suav tias yog siv tau.
10) Qhov dav dav ntawm daim ntaub yog hais txog qhov kev ncua deb ntawm sab nrauv ntawm ib kawg mus rau sab nrauv selvage ntawm lwm qhov kawg.
Cutable fabric width yog qhov dav ntsuas yam tsis muaj selvedge thiab / los yog stitcher pinholes, unprinted, uncoated los yog lwm yam untreated nto feem ntawm lub cev ntaub.
Kev ntsuam xyuas xim txawv:
11) Cov xim sib txawv ntawm cov yob thiab yob, cov khoom siv thiab cov khoom siv yuav tsum tsis txhob qis dua plaub theem hauv AATCC grey scale.
12) Thaum lub sijhawm tshuaj xyuas daim ntaub, siv 6 ~ 10 nti dav xim sib txawv ntawm daim ntaub los ntawm txhua lub yob, tus neeg soj ntsuam yuav siv cov tawv nqaij los sib piv cov xim sib txawv hauv tib lub yob lossis xim txawv ntawm cov yob sib txawv.
13) Cov xim sib txawv ntawm ntug-rau-ntug, ntug-rau-nruab nrab lossis daim ntaub taub hau-rau-daim ntaub hauv tib lub yob yuav tsum tsis txhob qis dua qib plaub hauv AATCC grey nplai. Rau kev tshuaj xyuas cov yob, txhua qhov chaw ntawm cov ntaub nrog cov xim sib txawv ntawm qhov tsis xws luag yuav raug ntsuas plaub lub ntsiab lus hauv ib lub vaj.
14) Yog tias cov ntaub yuav raug kuaj xyuas tsis ua raws li cov qauv pom zoo ua ntej, nws cov xim sib txawv yuav tsum qis dua 4-5 qib hauv cov lus grey, txwv tsis pub cov khoom no yuav raug suav tias tsis tsim nyog.
Roll length:
15) Yog tias qhov ntev ntawm ib qho yob sib txawv los ntawm ntau dua 2% ntawm qhov ntev qhia ntawm daim ntawv lo, yob yuav raug suav tias tsis tsim nyog. Rau cov yob nrog yob ntev sib txawv, lawv cov qhab nia tsis raug tsis raug ntsuas lawm, tab sis yuav tsum tau qhia hauv daim ntawv tshuaj ntsuam xyuas.
16) Yog tias qhov sib npaug ntawm qhov ntev ntawm tag nrho cov qauv random deviates los ntawm 1% lossis ntau dua los ntawm qhov ntev qhia ntawm daim ntawv lo, tag nrho cov khoom yuav raug suav tias tsis tsim nyog.
Kev sib koom ua ke:
17) Rau woven fabrics, tag nrho cov yob ntawm ntaub tuaj yeem txuas nrog ntau qhov chaw, tshwj tsis yog tias tau teev tseg hauv daim ntawv cog lus yuav khoom, yog tias yob ntawm cov ntaub muaj qhov sib koom ua ke nrog qhov ntev ntawm tsawg dua 40y, yob yuav txiav txim siab. yog tsis tsim nyog.
Rau cov ntaub knitted, tag nrho cov yob tuaj yeem ua los ntawm ntau qhov sib koom ua ke, tshwj tsis yog tias tau teev tseg hauv daim ntawv cog lus yuav khoom, yog tias ib lub yob muaj qhov sib koom ua ke hnyav dua 30 phaus, yob yuav raug cais raws li qhov tsis tsim nyog.
Weft oblique thiab bow weft:
18) Rau woven thiab knitted fabrics, tag nrho cov ntaub ntawv luam tawm los yog striped fabrics nrog ntau tshaj 2% bow weft thiab kab pheeb ces kaum folds; thiab tag nrho cov ntaub ntawv phem nrog ntau dua 3% skew tsis tuaj yeem raug cais ua thawj chav kawm.
Txiav daim ntaub raws li qhov kev taw qhia weft, thiab sim ua kom lo rau qhov kev taw qhia ntawm weft dabtsi yog khoov kom deb li deb tau;
Tshem tawm cov xov paj ntawm ib qho los ntawm ib qho;
Kom txog rau thaum ib tug tiav weft yog kos;
Yuav ua li cas siv plaub-point system los ua kev soj ntsuam ntawm textile fabrics
Quav nyob rau hauv ib nrab raws li warp, nrog cov npoo ntws, thiab ntsuas qhov kev ncua deb ntawm qhov siab tshaj plaws thiab qhov qis tshaj.
Yuav ua li cas siv plaub-point system los ua kev soj ntsuam ntawm textile fabrics
19) Rau woven fabrics, tag nrho cov luam tawm thiab striped fabrics nrog skew ntau tshaj 2%, thiab tag nrho cov wick fabrics nrog skew ntau tshaj 3% tsis tuaj yeem muab faib ua thawj-chav kawm.
Rau knitted fabrics, tag nrho cov wick fabrics thiab prints fabrics nrog ib tug skew ntau tshaj 5% tsis tuaj yeem raug cais raws li cov khoom lag luam thawj zaug.
Ntaub ntaub:
21) Tag nrho cov yob uas emit tsw yuav tsis dhau kev soj ntsuam.
Qhov:
22), los ntawm qhov tsis xws luag uas ua rau kev puas tsuaj ntawm daim ntaub, txawm tias qhov loj ntawm kev puas tsuaj, nws yuav tsum tau ntsuas raws li 4 ntsiab lus. Ib lub qhov yuav tsum muaj ob lossis ntau dua cov xov paj tawg.
Xav:
23) Txheeb xyuas qhov xav tau ntawm daim ntaub los ntawm kev sib piv nrog cov qauv siv. Nyob rau hauv qhov xwm txheej ntawm qhov sib txawv tseem ceeb, cov yob yuav raug ntsuas raws li chav kawm thib ob, nrog rau qhov qhab nia ntawm 4 ib yard. Yog tias qhov kev xav ntawm tag nrho cov yob tsis mus txog qib ntawm cov qauv siv, kev tshuaj xyuas yuav raug ncua thiab cov qhab nia yuav tsis raug ntsuas ib ntus.
Ceev:
24) Hauv kev tshuaj xyuas tag nrho, tsawg kawg yog ob qhov kev tshuaj xyuas tau tso cai, thiab ± 5% raug tso cai, txwv tsis pub nws yuav raug suav tias tsis tsim nyog (txawm tias nws tsis siv rau 4-kauj ruam, nws yuav tsum tau sau tseg).
Gram hnyav:
25) Thaum lub sijhawm tshuaj xyuas tag nrho, tsawg kawg yog ob qhov kev tshuaj xyuas (nrog rau qhov ntsuas kub thiab av noo) tau tso cai, thiab ± 5% raug tso cai, txwv tsis pub nws yuav raug suav tias yog cov khoom lag luam tsis zoo (txawm tias nws tsis siv rau plaub lub ntsiab lus. , nws yuav tsum tau sau tseg).
Reel, packing xav tau:
1) Tsis muaj cov cai tshwj xeeb, txog 100 yards ntev thiab tsis pub tshaj 150 phaus hauv qhov hnyav.
2) Tsis muaj qhov tshwj xeeb, nws yuav tsum tau reeled, thiab daim ntawv reel yuav tsum tsis txhob puas thaum lub sij hawm thauj mus los.
3) Txoj kab uas hla ntawm daim ntawv raj yog 1.5 "-2.0".
4) Ntawm ob qhov kawg ntawm daim ntaub yob, qhov nthuav tawm yuav tsum tsis pub tshaj 1 ".
5) Ua ntej dov daim ntaub, kho nws ntawm sab laug, nruab nrab thiab sab xis nrog cov nplaum nplaum hauv qab 4 ".
6) Tom qab yob, txhawm rau tiv thaiv cov yob los ntawm loosening, thov 12 "kab kab xev los kho 4 qhov chaw.
Post lub sij hawm: Lub Xya hli ntuj-31-2022