As a foreign trade company, when the goods are ready, inspection is the last step to ensure the quality of the goods, which is very important. If you don’t pay attention to the inspection, it may result in a shortfall in success.
I have suffered losses in this regard. Let me talk to you about some issues of foreign trade companies engaged in textile and garment inspection.
The full text is nearly 8,000 words, including detailed inspection standards for the textile and garment industry. It is expected to take 20 minutes to read. Friends who do textiles and clothing suggest that they be collected and preserved.
1. Why do you need to inspect the goods?
1. Inspection is the last link in production. If this link is missing, then your factory’s production process is incomplete.
2. Inspection is a way to actively find problems. Through inspection, we can check out which products are unreasonable, and avoid claims and disputes after customers check them out.
3. Inspection is the quality assurance to improve the delivery level. Inspection according to the standardized process can effectively avoid customer complaints and enhance brand influence. Pre-shipment inspection is a very important part of the entire quality control, which can control the quality to the greatest extent and at the lowest cost and reduce the risk of shipping.
In this regard, I found that some foreign trade companies, in order to save costs, did not go to the factory to inspect the goods after finishing the bulk goods, but directly let the factory deliver the goods to the customer’s freight forwarder. As a result, the customer found that there was a problem after receiving the goods, which caused the foreign trade company to be quite passive. Because you did not inspect the goods, you did not know the final shipment situation of the manufacturer. Therefore, foreign trade companies should pay special attention to this link.
2. The inspection process
1. Prepare the order information. The inspector should take out the order information for the factory, which is the most initial certificate. Especially in the clothing industry, it is basically difficult to avoid the situation of doing more and doing less. So take out the original voucher and check with the factory to see the difference between the final quantity of each style, size allocation, etc., and the planned quantity.
2. Prepare the inspection standard. The inspector should take out the inspection standard. For example, for a suit, what parts need to be inspected, where are the key parts, and what are the design standards. The standard with pictures and texts is convenient for inspectors to check.
3. Formal inspection. Communicate with the factory in advance about the inspection time, make the factory ready, and then go to the site for inspection.
4. Problem feedback and draft inspection report. After the inspection, a complete inspection report should be compiled. Point out the problem found. Communicate with the factory for solutions, etc.
Below, I take the clothing industry as an example to talk about common problems in the process of clothing inspection. For reference.
3. Case: common problems in clothing inspection
1. Common terms in textile and garment inspection
Checking of finished products
inspection, check
commodity inspection
wrinkles at top collar
top collar appears tight
crumples at top collar
collar edge appears loose
collar edge appears tight
collar band is longer than collar
collar band is shorter than collar
wrinkles at collar band facing
collar band lean out of collar
collar deviates from front center line
creases below neckline
bunches below back neckline
wrinkles at top lapel
top lapel appears tight
lapel edge appears loose
lapel edge appears tight
lapel roll line is uneven
gorge line is uneven
tight neckline
collar stand away from neck
puckers at shoulders
wrinkles at shoulder
creases at underarm
puckers at underarm seam
lack of fullness at chest
crumples at dart point
wrinkles at zip fly
front edge is uneven
front edge is out of square
front edge is upturned
facing leans out of front edge
split at front edge
crossing at front edge
wrinkles at hem
back of coat rides up
split at back vent
crossing at back vent
puckers at quilting
padded cotton is uneven
empty hem
diagonal wrinkles at sleeve cap
sleeve leans to front
sleeve leans to back
inseam leans to front
wrinkles at sleeve opening
diagonal wrinkles at sleeve lining
top flap appears tight
flap lining leans out of edge
flap edge is uneven
creases on two ends of pocket mouth
split at pocket mouth
end of waistband is uneven
wrinkles at waistband facing
creases at right fly
tight crotch
short seat
slack seat
wrinkles at front rise
bursting of crotch seam
two legs are uneven
leg opening is uneven
pulling at outseam or inseam
crease line leans to outside
crease line leans to inside
bunches below waistline seam
split at lower part of skirt
split hem line rides up
skirt flare is uneven
stitch seam leans out line
stitch seam is uneven
skipping
off size
stitching quality is not good
washing quality is not good
pressing quality is not good
iron-shine
water stain
rust
spot
color shade, off shade, color deviation
fading, fugitive color
thread residue
raw edge leans out of seam
embroidery design out line is uncovered
2. Accurate expression in textile and garment inspection
1.uneven–adj. Uneven; uneven. In clothing English, uneven has unequal length, asymmetrical, uneven clothing, and unevenness.
(1) of unequal length. For example, when describing the different lengths of the left and right plackets of the shirt, you can use uneven placket length; long and short sleeves—uneven sleeve length; different lengths of collar points—uneven collar point;
(2) Asymmetric. For example, the collar is asymmetrical–uneven collar point/end; the pleat length is asymmetrical–uven pleats length;
(3) Uneven. For example, the provincial tip is uneven –uneven dart point;
(4) Uneven. For example, uneven stitching–uneven stitching; uneven hem width–uneven hem
Its usage is also very simple: uneven+part/craft. This word is extremely common in inspection English and has rich meanings. So be sure to master it!
2.poor- in English clothing means: bad, bad, bad.
Usage: poor + craft + (part); poorly shaped + part
(1) Poor workmanship
(2) Poor ironing
(3) Poor sewing
(4) The bag shape is not good
(5) Bad waist
(6) Poor back stitch
3. missed/missing+sth at +part — a part of the garment is missing sth
missed/missing+process—a process was missed
(1) Missing stitching
(2) Missing paper
(3) Missing button
4. A certain part of the garment – twist, stretch, wave, bend
wrinkled/twisted/stretched/distorted/wavy/puckering/curve/crooked+ parts
(1) Clamp ring wrinkling
(2) The hem is twisted
(3) The stitches are wavy
(4) Seam wrinkling
5.misplaced+sth at +part—-The position of a certain process of clothing is wrong
(1) Misplaced printing
(2) Dislocation of shoulder pads
(3) Misplaced velcro tapes
6.wrong/incorrect +sth something is used incorrectly
(1) The folding size is wrong
(2) Wrong listing
(3) Wrong main label/care label
7.Mark
(1) pencil mark pencil mark
(2) glue mark glue mark
(3) fold mark crease
(4) wrinkled mark
(5) creases mark wrinkles
8. Lifting: hiking at + part or: part + ride up
9.easing– eat potential. ease on+part+uneven–a certain part eats unevenly。For example, in the sleeves, zippers, and collars, it is required to “eat evenly”. If we find that there is too little/too much/uneven eating in a certain part during the inspection, we will use the word easing.
（1）too much easing at CF neckline
（2）uneven easing at sleeve cap
（3）too little easing at front zipper
10. Stitches. Stitch + part—indicates what stitch is used for a certain part. SN stitch=single needle stitch single line; DN stitch=double needle stitch double line; triple needle stitch three lines; edge stitch edge line;
(1) SN stitch at front yoke
(2) edge stitch at top collar
11.High & low+ part means: a certain part of the garment is uneven.
(1) High and low pockets: high & low front chest pockets
(2) High and low waist: high & low waistband ends
(3) High and low collar: high & low collar ends
(4) High and low neck: high & low back neck
12. Blisters and bulges in a certain part cause uneven clothing. Crumple/bubble /bulge/bump/blistering at+
(1) bubbling at collar
(2) Crumpled at top collar
13. Anti-vomit. Such as lining revomit, mouth revomit, bag cloth exposure, etc.
part+visible
Part 1 + leans out of + Part 2
(1) Exposed bag cloth—pocket bag visible
(2) Kefu stopped his mouth and vomited—inner cuff visible
(3) Front and middle anti-stop — facing leans out of front edge
14. Put. . . arrive. . . . Set-in /sew together A and B /attach ..to… /A assemble to B
(1) Sleeve: sew sleeve to armhole, set in sleeve, attach sleeve to body
(2) Cuff: sew cuff to sleeve
(3) Collar: set-in collar
15.unmatched–commonly used in: the cross seam at the bottom of the sleeve is not fastened, the cross seam is not aligned, the crotch seam is not fastened
(1) Cross stitch dislocation –unmatched crotch cross
(2) Unmatched stripes in the front and middle —unmatched stripes &checks at CF
(3) Unmatched under armhole cross
16.OOT/OOS—out of tolerance/out of specification
(1) The bust exceeds the specified size by 2cm—chest OOT +2cm
(2) The length of the garment is less than the specified size 2cm—body length front from HPS-hip OOS-2cm
17.pls improve
workmanship/styling/fitting–improve the craftsmanship/pattern/size. This sentence can be added after describing a problem to increase emphasis.
18. Stains, spots, etc.
(1) dirty spot at collar—have a stain
(2) Water stain at CF- there is water stain before
(3) Rust stain at snap
19. Part +not secure—A part is not secure. The common ones are beads and buttons. .
(1) beads stitching not secure–beads are not strong
(2) Insecured button
20. Wrong or slanted grain line at + position
(1) The silk thread error of the front panel–wrong grain line at front panel
(2) The twisted trouser legs cause the trouser legs to twist –leg twisted because of slanted grain line at leg
(3) Wrong grain line cutting–wrong grain line cutting
21. A certain part is not installed well and is not well–poor + part + setting
(1) Poor sleeve setting
(2) Poor collar setting
22. Part/process+isn’t follow sample exactly
(1) pocket shape and size not follow sample exactly
(2) embroidery on chest not follow sample exactly
23. Clothing problem +caused by +reason
(1) shading caused by poor color interlining matching
(2) Front edge twisted caused by no easing at zipper
24. The clothing is too loose or too tight at the part +appears+loose/tight; too loose/tight at the + part
3. Frequently encountered problems in textile and garment inspection?
(A) GENERAL DEFECTS:
1. Soil (Dirt)
a. Oil, ink, glue, bleach, chalk, grease, or other stain/discoloration.
b. Any residue from cleaning, dying, or other application of chemicals.
c. Any objectionable odor.
2. Not As Specified
a. Any measurement not as specified or outside the tolerance.
b. Fabric, color, hardware, or accessories different from sign-off sample.
c. Substituted or missing parts.
d. Poor match of fabric to an established standard or a poor match of accessories to the fabric if a match is intended.
3.Fabric Defects
a. Holes
b. Any surface blemish or weakness that could become a hole.
c. Snagged or pulled thread or yarn.
d. Fabric weaving defects ( Slubs, loose threads, etc.).
e. Uneven application of dye, coating, backing, or other finish.
f. Fabric construction, ―hand feel‖, or appearance different from sign off sample.
4. Cutting direction
a. All napped leather have to follow our instruction of direction when cutting.
b. Any fabric concerning cutting direction like corduroy/rib-knitted/printed or woven with pattern etc had to follow
GEMLINE’s instruction.
(B) CONSTRUCTION DEFECTS
1. Stitching
a. Sewing thread different color from main fabric (if a match is intended).
b. Stitching not straight or running into adjoining panels.
c. Broken stitches.
d. Fewer than specified stitches per inch.
e. Skipped or missing stitches.
f. Double row of stitches not parallel.
g. Needle cut or stitch holes.
h. Loose or untrimmed threads.
i. Return Stitching requirement as follows:
I). Leather tab- 2 return stitches and both thread ends has to be pulled down to the back side of leather tab, using 2 ends to tie
a knot and glue it down at the back of leather tab.
II). On nylon bag – All return stitches cannot less then 3 stitches.
2. Seams
a. Crooked, twisted, or puckered seams.
b. Open seams
c. Seams not finished with appropriate piping or binding
d. Ragged or unfinished edges visible
3. Accessories, Trim
a. Zipper tape’s color does not match, if a match is intended
b. Rust, scratches, discoloration, or tarnish of any metal part
c. Rivets not completely attached
d. Defective parts (zippers, snaps, clips, Velcro, buckles)
e. Missing parts
f. Accessories or trim different from sign off sample
g. Piping crushed or deformed
h. Zipper slider does not fit with the size of zipper teeth
i. Color fastness of zipper is poor.
4. Pockets:
a. Pocket not parallel with edges of bag
b. Pocket not correct size.
5. Reinforcement
a. The back side of all rivet which to be used for shoulder strap needs to add a clear plastic ring for reinforcement
b. The back side of stitching for attaching the handle of nylon bag has to add 2mm transparent PVC for reinforcement.
c. The back side of stitching for inside panel which attached with pen-loop/pockets/elastic etc has to add 2mm transparent
PVC for reinforcement.
d. When sewing the top handle webbing of backpack, both ends of webbing had to be turned and covered the seam allowanceof body (Not Just only inserted the webbing between body materials and sewn together), After this processing, the stitching of binding should also stitched through the webbing too, so the webbing for top handle should have 2 stitching of attachment.
e. Any fabric backing of PVC had been skived away for achieving return edge purpose, a 420D nylon piece should be glued
inside for reinforcement when sewing through area again.
Fourth, the case: how to write a standard clothing inspection report?
So, how to write a standard inspection report? The inspection should include the following 10 points:
1. Inspection date/inspector/shipping date
2. Product name/model number
3. Order number/customer name
4. Quantity of goods to be shipped/sampling box number/quantity of goods to be checked
5. Whether the box label/packing match/UPC sticker/promotional card/SKU sticker/PVC plastic bag and other accessories are correct or not
6. The size/color is correct or not. workmanship.
7. Found CRETICAL/MAJOR/MINOR DEFECTS, list statistics, judge results according to AQL
8. Inspection opinions and suggestions for correction and improvement. CARTON DROP TEST results
9. Factory signature, (report with factory signature)
10. The first time (within 24 hours after the end of the inspection) EMAIL sends out the inspection report to the relevant MDSER and QA MANAGER, and confirms receipt。
Hint
List of common problems in clothing inspection:
Garment Appearance
• The cloth color of the garment exceeds the specification requirements, or exceeds the allowable range on the comparison card
• Chromatic flakes/threads/visible attachments that affect garment appearance
• Distinctly spherical surface
• Oil, dirt, visible within the sleeve length, relatively affects appearance
• For plaid fabrics, the appearance and shrinkage are affected by the cutting relationship (flat lines appear in the warp and weft directions)
• There are obvious rungs, slivers, long range affecting appearance
• Within the sleeve length, the knitted fabric sees color, whether there is any phenomenon
• Wrong warp, wrong weft (woven) dressings, spare parts
• The use or substitution of unapproved excipients that affect the appearance of the fabric, such as paper backing, etc.
• The shortage or damage of any special accessories and spare parts cannot be used according to the original requirements, such as the mechanism cannot be buckled, the zipper cannot be closed, and the fusible things are not indicated on the instruction label of each piece of clothing
• Any organizational structure adversely affects the appearance of clothing
• Sleeve Reverse and Twist
Printing defects
• lack of color
• The color is not fully covered
• Misspelled 1/16”
• The pattern direction does not conform to the specification. 205. The bar and grid are misaligned. When the organizational structure requires the bar and grid to be aligned, the alignment is 1/4.
• Misalignment by more than 1/4″ (at the placket or trousers open)
• More than 1/8″ misaligned, fly or center piece
• Over 1/8″ misaligned, bag and pocket flaps 206. Cloth bowed or slanted, sides not equal by more than 1/2″ dressing
Button
• Missing buttons
• Broken, damaged, defective, reverse buttons
• out of specification
Paper lining
• Fusible paper liner must match each garment, not blister, wrinkle
• Garments with shoulder pads, do not extend the pads beyond the hem
Zipper
• Any functional incompetence
• The cloth on both sides does not match the color of the teeth
• The zipper car is too tight or too loose, resulting in uneven zipper bulges and pockets
• Clothes do not look good when the zipper is opened
• The zipper straps are not straight
• The pocket zipper is not straight enough to bulge the top half of the pocket
• Aluminum zippers cannot be used
• The size and length of the zipper should match the length of the garment where it will be used, or meet the specified size requirements
Corns or hooks
• Missed or misplaced car
• Hooks and corns are out of center, and when fastened, the fastening points are not straight or bulged
• New metal attachments, hooks, eyelets, stickers, rivets, iron buttons, anti-rust can be dry or clean
• Appropriate size, accurate positioning and specification
Wash Labels and Trademarks
• The washing label is not logical enough, or the precautions are not enough, the content written is not enough to meet the requirements of all customers, the origin of the fiber composition is inaccurate, and the RN number, the position of the trademark is not as required
• The logo must be fully visible, with a positional error of +-1/4″ 0.5 line
Route
• Needle per inch +2/-1 exceeds requirements, or does not meet specifications and is not suitable
• Stitch shape, pattern, unsuitable or unsuitable, for example, the stitching is not strong enough
• When the thread ends, (if there is no connection or conversion), the back stitch is not knocked down, so at least 2-3 stitches
• Repair stitches, joined on both sides and repeating no less than 1/2″ chain stitch must be covered by an overlock stitch bag or chain stitch that can be included
• Defective stitches
• Chain Stitch, Overcast, Overlay Stitch, Broken, Less, Skip Stitch
• Lockstitch, one jump per 6″ seam No jumps, broken threads or cuts are allowed in critical sections
• Buttonhole skipped, cut, weak stitches, not fully secure, misplaced, not secure enough, not all X stitches as required
• Inconsistent or missing bar tack length, position, width, stitch density
• The dark number line is twisted and wrinkled because it is too tight
• Irregular or uneven stitches, poor seam control
• Runaway stitches
• Single wire not accepted
• Special thread size affects clothing fastness stitch line
• When the sewing thread is too tight, it will cause the thread and the cloth to break when it is in a normal state. To properly control the length of the yarn, the sewing thread must be extended by 30%-35% (details before)
• The original edge is outside the stitch
• The stitches are not firmly open
• Severely twisted, when the stitches on both sides are stitched together, they are not laid straight enough so that the trousers are not flat, and the trousers are twisted
• Thread ends longer than 1/2″
• Visible dart line inside garment is below the kurf or 1/2″ above the hem
• Broken wire, outside 1/4″
• Top stitch, single and double stitches without head to toe, for one stitch 0.5 sewing, Khaok
• All car lines should be straight to the garment, not twisted or skewed, with a maximum of three places not straight
• Over 1/4 of the seam pleats, the internal performance is multi-needle fixing, and the external car pulls out
Product packaging
• No ironing, folding, hanging, plastic bags, bags and matching requirements
• Bad ironing includes chromatic aberration, aurora, discoloration, any other defects
• Size stickers, price tags, hanger sizes are not available, not in place, or out of specification
• Any packaging that does not meet the requirements (hangers, bags, cartons, box tags)
• Inappropriate or illogical printing, including price tags, hanger size labels, packaging boards
• The main defects of garments that do not meet the requirements of the carton content
Attachment
• All not as required, color, specification, appearance. Example shoulder strap, paper lining, elastic band, zipper, button
Structure
- • Front hem not flush 1/4″
- • Internal cloth exposed at the top
- • For each accessory, the film connection is not straight and exceeds 1/4″ case, sleeve
- • Patches do not correspond more than 1/4″ in length
- • Bad shape of the patch, causing it to bulge on both sides after being attached
- • Improper placement of tiles
- • Irregular waist or more than 1/4″ wide with corresponding part
- • Elastic bands are not evenly distributed
- • Left and right stitches must not exceed the normal 1/4″ inside and outside for shorts, tops, trousers
- • Ribbed collar, kef must be no wider than 3/16”
- • Long sleeves, hem, and high-neck ribbing, not more than 1/4″ wide
- • Placket position no more than 1/4″
- • Exposed stitches on sleeves
- • Misaligned by more than 1/4″ when attached under the sleeve
- • Coffey is not straight
- • Kraft is out of position by more than 1/4″ when putting up the sleeve
- • Underwear, left barrel to right barrel, left bar to right bar difference 1/8″ bar less than 1/2″ special width 1/4″ bar, 1 1/2″ or more width
- • Left and right sleeve length difference is over 1/2″ collar/collar, strip, kev
- • Excessive bulging, wrinkling, twisting of the collar (collar top)
- • Collar tips are not uniform, or are noticeably out of shape
- • Over 1/8″ on both sides of the collar
- • The collar dressing is noticeably uneven, too tight or too loose
- • The track of the collar is uneven from top to bottom, and the inner collar is exposed
- • The center point is wrong when the collar is turned up
- • The rear center collar does not cover the collar
- • Overcome unevenness, distortion, or bad looks
- • Unbalanced whisker placket, over 1/4″ pocket defect when shoulder stitching is contrasted with front pocket
- • Pocket level is unbalanced, more than 1/4″ off center
- • Significant bending
- • The weight of the pocket cloth does not meet the specifications
- • Bad pocket size
- • The shape of the pockets is different, or the pockets are horizontal, obviously skewed in the left and right directions, and the pockets are defective in the direction of the sleeve length
- • Noticeably slanted, 1/8″ off centerline
- • Buttons are too big or too small
- • Buttonhole burrs, (caused by the knife not being fast enough)
- • Misaligned or incorrect position, resulting in deformation
- • Lines are misaligned, or poorly aligned
- • The density of the thread does not match the properties of the cloth
❗ Warn
1. Foreign trade companies must inspect the goods in person
2. The problems found in the inspection should be communicated with the customer in time
You need to prepare
1. Order Form
2. Inspection standard list
3. Inspection report
4. Timing
Post time: Aug-20-2022