Ndi zovala zanu

M'zaka zaposachedwa, ndi chidziwitso chowonjezereka cha chitetezo cha chilengedwe pakati pa anthu apakhomo komanso kufalitsa kosalekeza kwa kugwiritsidwa ntchito kwa zinthu ndi kuwononga chilengedwe m'makampani opanga zovala kapena zovala kudzera m'ma TV a m'mayiko ndi kunja, ogula sakudziwanso zambiri. Mwachitsanzo, makampani opanga zovala ndi achiwiri pamakampani owononga chilengedwe padziko lonse lapansi, achiwiri pambuyo pa mafakitale amafuta. Mwachitsanzo, makampani opanga mafashoni amapanga 20% yamadzi onyansa padziko lonse lapansi ndi 10% ya mpweya wapadziko lonse lapansi chaka chilichonse.

Komabe, nkhani ina yofunika yofananayo ikuwoneka ngati yosadziwika kwa ogula ambiri. Ndiko kuti: kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala ndi kasamalidwe mu mafakitale a nsalu ndi zovala.

Mankhwala abwino? Mankhwala oipa?

Pankhani ya mankhwala mumakampani opanga nsalu, ogula wamba ambiri amaphatikiza kupsinjika ndi kukhalapo kwa zinthu zapoizoni ndi zovulaza zomwe zimasiyidwa pazovala zawo, kapena chithunzi cha mafakitale opanga zovala akuipitsa njira zamadzi zachilengedwe ndi kuchuluka kwamadzi onyansa. Malingaliro ake si abwino. Komabe, ndi ogula ochepa omwe amafufuza mozama za ntchito yomwe mankhwala amagwira mu nsalu monga zovala ndi nsalu zapakhomo zomwe zimakongoletsa matupi athu ndi miyoyo yathu.

Kodi chinthu choyamba chimene chinakukhudzani ndi chiyani pamene munatsegula zovala zanu? Mtundu. Wokonda kwambiri, wabuluu wodekha, wakuda wosasunthika, wofiirira modabwitsa, wachikasu wowoneka bwino, wotuwa bwino, woyera… Mitundu ya zovala iyi yomwe mumagwiritsa ntchito kuwonetsa mbali ya umunthu wanu siyingapezeke popanda mankhwala, kapena kunena mosapita m'mbali, osati mophweka. Mwachitsanzo, potengera chibakuwa, m’mbiri, zovala zofiirira nthawi zambiri zinali za anthu olemekezeka kapena apamwamba chifukwa utoto wofiirira unali wosowa komanso wodula mwachibadwa. Sizinali kufikira chapakati pa zaka za zana la 19 pamene katswiri wa zamankhwala wachichepere Wachibritishi anapeza mwangozi pawiri wofiirira mkati mwa kaphatikizidwe ka kwinini, ndipo utoto wofiirira pang’onopang’ono unakhala mtundu umene anthu wamba angasangalale nawo.

Kuphatikiza pa kukongoletsa zovala, mankhwala amathandizanso kwambiri kuti nsalu zigwire ntchito mwapadera. Mwachitsanzo, zofunika kwambiri madzi, kuvala zosagwira ndi ntchito zina. Kuchokera pakuwona kwakukulu, sitepe iliyonse ya kupanga zovala kuchokera ku nsalu yopangira nsalu kupita ku zovala zomaliza zimakhala zogwirizana kwambiri ndi mankhwala. Mwa kuyankhula kwina, mankhwala ndi ndalama zosapeŵeka m'makampani amakono a nsalu. Malinga ndi lipoti la Global Chemicals Outlook II la 2019 lomwe linatulutsidwa ndi bungwe la United Nations Environment Programme, zikuyembekezeka kuti pofika chaka cha 2026, dziko lapansi lidzadya $31.8 biliyoni mu mankhwala a nsalu, poyerekeza ndi $19 biliyoni mu 2012. kufunikira kwadziko lonse kwa nsalu ndi zovala kukukulirakulirabe, makamaka m'mayiko omwe akutukuka kumene ndi madera.

Komabe, malingaliro olakwika a ogula a mankhwala mumakampani opanga zovala sizongopeka. Malo aliwonse opanga nsalu padziko lonse lapansi (kuphatikiza malo omwe kale anali kupanga nsalu) mosakayikira amakumana ndi zochitika zosindikizira ndi kudaya madzi oyipa "kudaya" misewu yapafupi yamadzi panthawi inayake. Kwa makampani opanga nsalu m'maiko ena omwe akutukuka kumene, izi zitha kukhala zenizeni. Zithunzi zokongola za mitsinje zakhala chimodzi mwazinthu zoyipa zomwe ogula amakhala nazo ndi kupanga nsalu ndi zovala.

Kumbali ina, nkhani ya zotsalira za mankhwala pa zovala, makamaka zotsalira za zinthu zapoizoni ndi zovulaza, yadzutsa nkhawa anthu ena ogula za thanzi ndi chitetezo cha nsalu. Zimenezi zimaonekera kwambiri kwa makolo a ana obadwa kumene. Kutengera formaldehyde mwachitsanzo, pankhani yokongoletsa, anthu ambiri amadziwa kuvulaza kwa formaldehyde, koma ndi anthu ochepa omwe amalabadira zomwe zili mu formaldehyde pogula zovala. Popanga zovala, zida zopaka utoto ndi zomalizitsa utomoni zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pokonza utoto komanso kupewa makwinya nthawi zambiri zimakhala ndi formaldehyde. Kuchuluka kwa formaldehyde muzovala kungayambitse kupsa mtima kwambiri pakhungu ndi kupuma. Kuvala zovala zokhala ndi formaldehyde kwa nthawi yayitali kumatha kuyambitsa kutupa kwa kupuma komanso dermatitis.

Mankhwala opangira nsalu omwe muyenera kusamala nawo

formaldehyde

Amagwiritsidwa ntchito pomaliza nsalu kuti athandizire kukonza mitundu komanso kupewa makwinya, koma pali nkhawa zokhudzana ndi ubale pakati pa formaldehyde ndi khansa zina.

heavy metal

Utoto ndi utoto ukhoza kukhala ndi zitsulo zolemera monga lead, mercury, cadmium, ndi chromium, zina zomwe zimawononga dongosolo lamanjenje laumunthu ndi impso.

Alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether

Zomwe zimapezeka m'ma surfactants, zolowera, zotsukira, zofewetsa, ndi zina zotero, zikalowa m'madzi, zimakhala zovulaza zamoyo zina zam'madzi, zomwe zimayambitsa kuipitsa chilengedwe komanso kuwononga chilengedwe.

Letsani utoto wa azo

Utoto woletsedwa umasamutsidwa kuchokera ku nsalu zopaka utoto kupita pakhungu, ndipo nthawi zina, kuchepetsedwa kumachitika, kutulutsa ma amine onunkhira a carcinogenic.

Benzene chloride ndi toluene kloride

Zotsalira pa poliyesitala ndi nsalu zake zosakanikirana, zovulaza anthu ndi chilengedwe, zimatha kuyambitsa khansa komanso kupunduka kwa nyama.

Phthalate ester

Plasticizer wamba. Pambuyo pokhudzana ndi ana, makamaka atatha kuyamwa, zimakhala zosavuta kulowa m'thupi ndikuvulaza

Izi ndi zoona kuti mbali imodzi, mankhwala ndi ofunika kwambiri, ndipo kumbali ina, kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala molakwika kumawononga kwambiri chilengedwe ndi thanzi. M'nkhani ino,kuyang'anira ndi kuyang'anira mankhwala kwakhala nkhani yofulumira komanso yofunikira yomwe ikukumana ndi mafakitale a nsalu ndi zovala, zomwe zikugwirizana ndi chitukuko chokhazikika cha mafakitale.

Kasamalidwe ka mankhwala ndi kuwunika

M'malo mwake, m'malamulo amayiko osiyanasiyana, pamakhala chidwi kwambiri pamankhwala a nsalu, ndipo pali zoletsa zopatsa chilolezo, njira zoyesera, ndi njira zowunikira zamiyezo yotulutsa komanso mindandanda yoletsa kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala aliwonse. Kutengera chitsanzo cha formaldehyde, muyezo wa dziko la China GB18401-2010 "Basic Safety Technical Specifications for National Textile Products" umafotokoza momveka bwino kuti zinthu za formaldehyde mu nsalu ndi zovala zisapitirire 20mg/kg pa Gulu A (zogulitsa makanda ndi ana aang'ono), 75mg/ Ma kg a Gulu B (zogulitsa zomwe zimakumana mwachindunji ndi khungu la munthu), ndi 300mg/kg za Gulu C (zogulitsa zomwe sizimakhudzana mwachindunji ndi khungu la munthu). Komabe, pali kusiyana kwakukulu kwa malamulo pakati pa mayiko osiyanasiyana, zomwe zimabweretsanso kusowa kwa miyezo yogwirizana ndi njira zoyendetsera mankhwala mu ndondomeko yeniyeni yoyendetsera ntchito, kukhala imodzi mwazovuta pa kayendetsedwe ka mankhwala ndi kuyang'anira.

M'zaka khumi zapitazi, makampani ayambanso kuchitapo kanthu podziyang'anira okha komanso kuchitapo kanthu pa kayendetsedwe kake ka mankhwala. Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Foundation (ZDHC Foundation), yomwe idakhazikitsidwa mu 2011, ndi nthumwi ya zomwe makampaniwa akuchita. Cholinga chake ndi kupatsa mphamvu mitundu ya nsalu, zovala, zikopa, ndi nsapato, ogulitsa, ndi maunyolo awo operekera kuti agwiritse ntchito njira zabwino zoyendetsera kasamalidwe ka mankhwala mu unyolo wamtengo wapatali, ndikuyesetsa kukwaniritsa cholinga cha zero zotulutsa mankhwala owopsa kudzera mu mgwirizano, muyezo. chitukuko, ndi kukhazikitsa.

Pofika pano, malonda omwe apanga mgwirizano ndi ZDHC Foundation awonjezeka kuchoka pa 6 mpaka 30, kuphatikizapo mafashoni otchuka padziko lonse monga Adidas, H&M, NIKE, ndi Kaiyun Group. Pakati pamakampani ndi mabizinesi omwe amatsogola kwambiri, kasamalidwe ka mankhwala kwakhalanso gawo lofunikira pazachitukuko chokhazikika, ndipo zofunikira zofananira zaperekedwa kwa omwe amawapereka.

Chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa anthu omwe akufuna kuvala zovala zoteteza zachilengedwe komanso zathanzi, makampani ndi mitundu yomwe imaphatikiza kasamalidwe ka mankhwala m'malingaliro abwino komanso kuchitapo kanthu mwachangu kuti apereke zovala zoteteza zachilengedwe komanso zathanzi pamsika mosakayikira ali ndi mpikisano wamsika. Panthawi ino,dongosolo lodalirika la certification ndi zilembo za certification zitha kuthandiza ma brand ndi mabizinesi kulumikizana bwino ndi ogula ndikukhazikitsa kudalira.

Chimodzi mwazinthu zodziwika bwino zoyezetsa zinthu ndi ziphaso zodziwikiratu pamakampani ndi STANDARD 100 yolembedwa ndi OEKO-TEX®. Ndi njira yapadziko lonse lapansi yodziyimira payokha yoyesa ndi certification yomwe imayesa kuyesa kwazinthu zovulaza pazinthu zonse zopangira nsalu, zomalizidwa pang'ono komanso zomalizidwa. zopangidwa, komanso zida zonse zothandizira pokonza. Sizimangokhudza zofunikira zalamulo ndi malamulo, komanso zimaphatikizansopo mankhwala omwe ali ovulaza thanzi koma osagwirizana ndi malamulo, komanso magawo azachipatala omwe amasunga thanzi laumunthu.

Ecosystem yamabizinesi yaphunzira kuchokera ku bungwe lodziyimira pawokha loyesa ndi ziphaso la nsalu zaku Swiss ndi zinthu zachikopa, TestEX (WeChat: TestEX-OEKO-TEX), kuti milingo yodziwikiratu ndi malire a STANDARD 100 nthawi zambiri amakhala okhwima kuposa momwe amagwirira ntchito mdziko lonse lapansi komanso Miyezo yapadziko lonse lapansi, kutengabe formaldehyde monga chitsanzo. Kufunika kwa mankhwala kwa makanda ndi ana aang'ono osakwana zaka zitatu sikunadziwike, ndi kukhudzana kwachindunji ndi mankhwala a khungu osapitirira 75mg/kg ndipo osakhudzana mwachindunji ndi zinthu zapakhungu zosapitirira 150mg/kg, zokongoletsa sizingadutse 300mg/ kg. Kuphatikiza apo, STANDARD 100 imaphatikizanso mpaka 300 zinthu zomwe zingakhale zowopsa. Choncho, ngati muwona chizindikiro cha STANDARD 100 pa zovala zanu, zikutanthauza kuti yadutsa mayesero okhwima a mankhwala owopsa.

Muzochita za B2B, chizindikiro cha STANDARD 100 chimavomerezedwanso ndi makampani ngati umboni wa kutumiza. M'lingaliro limeneli, mabungwe odziyesa okha ndi opereka ziphaso monga TTS amakhala ngati mlatho wokhulupirirana pakati pa malonda ndi opanga awo, zomwe zimathandiza mgwirizano wabwino pakati pa onse awiri. TTS nawonso ndi mnzake wa ZDHC, kuthandiza kulimbikitsa cholinga cha zero mpweya wa mankhwala owopsa mu makampani nsalu.

Zonse,palibe kusiyana koyenera kapena kolakwika pakati pa mankhwala a nsalu. Chinsinsi chagona pakuwongolera ndi kuyang'anira, yomwe ndi nkhani yofunika kwambiri yokhudzana ndi chilengedwe komanso thanzi la anthu. Zimafunika kukwezeleza pamodzi kwa maphwando osiyanasiyana omwe ali ndi udindo, kukhazikitsidwa kwa malamulo a dziko ndi kugwirizanitsa malamulo ndi malamulo pakati pa mayiko ndi zigawo zosiyanasiyana, kudzilamulira ndi kukweza makampani, ndi machitidwe a mabizinesi popanga, pali kufunikira kwakukulu kwa ogula kukweza zofunikira zachilengedwe ndi thanzi pazovala zawo. Ndi njira iyi yokha yomwe zochita "zopanda poizoni" zamakampani opanga mafashoni zimakhala zenizeni m'tsogolomu.