Ese imyenda yawe?

Mu myaka yashize, hamwe n’ubukangurambaga bugenda bwiyongera ku kurengera ibidukikije mu baturage bo mu gihugu ndetse no gukomeza gukwirakwiza imikoreshereze y’umutungo n’ibibazo byangiza ibidukikije mu nganda z’imyambarire cyangwa imyambaro binyuze mu mbuga nkoranyambaga haba mu gihugu ndetse no ku rwego mpuzamahanga, abaguzi ntibakimenyereye amakuru amwe. Kurugero, uruganda rwimyenda ninganda ya kabiri nini ihumanya isi, iya kabiri nyuma yinganda za peteroli. Kurugero, inganda zerekana imideli zitanga 20% byamazi y’amazi ku isi na 10% y’ibyuka bihumanya ikirere buri mwaka.

Ariko, ikindi kibazo cyingenzi kimwe gisa nkicyatazwi kubakoresha benshi. Nukuvuga: gukoresha imiti nubuyobozi mu nganda n’imyenda.

Imiti myiza? Imiti mibi?

Ku bijyanye n’imiti mu nganda z’imyenda, abaguzi benshi basanzwe bahuza imihangayiko no kuba hari ibintu byangiza kandi byangiza bisigaye ku myenda yabo, cyangwa ishusho yinganda zimyenda zanduza inzira zamazi n’amazi menshi. Ibitekerezo ntabwo ari byiza. Nyamara, abakoresha bake ni bo binjira cyane mu ruhare imiti igira mu myenda nk'imyenda n'imyenda yo mu rugo irimbisha imibiri yacu n'ubuzima bwacu.

Ni ikihe kintu cya mbere cyaguhanze amaso ukinguye imyenda yawe? Ibara. Umutuku ushishikaye, utuje ubururu, umutuku uhoraho, umutuku wijimye, amabara yumuhondo, amabara meza, yera yera… Aya mabara yimyenda ukoresha kugirango werekane igice cyimiterere yawe ntashobora kugerwaho nta miti, cyangwa kuvuga neza, ntabwo byoroshye. Dufashe nk'umuhengeri nk'urugero, mu mateka, imyenda y'ibara ry'umuyugubwe ubusanzwe yari iy'abakomeye cyangwa abo mu rwego rwo hejuru kuko irangi ry'umuyugubwe ryari ridasanzwe kandi risanzwe rihenze. Mu kinyejana cya 19 rwagati, ni bwo umusore w’umuhanga mu bya shimi w’Ubwongereza yavumbuye ku buryo butunguranye uruganda rw’umuyugubwe mu gihe cya synthesis ya quinine, maze buhoro buhoro ihinduka ibara abantu basanzwe bashobora kwishimira.

Usibye guha ibara imyenda, imiti nayo igira uruhare runini mukuzamura imikorere idasanzwe yimyenda. Kurugero, ibyingenzi bidafite amazi, birinda kwambara nibindi bikorwa. Urebye muri rusange, buri ntambwe yimyenda yimyenda kuva kumyenda kugeza kumyenda yanyuma ijyanye cyane nimiti. Muyandi magambo, imiti nishoramari byanze bikunze mu nganda zigezweho. Nk’uko bigaragazwa na 2019 Global Chemical Outlook II yashyizwe ahagaragara na gahunda y’umuryango w’abibumbye ishinzwe ibidukikije, biteganijwe ko mu 2026, isi izakoresha miliyari 31.8 z’imiti y’imyenda, ugereranije na miliyari 19 z’amadolari ya Amerika mu mwaka wa 2012. isi yose ikenera imyenda n'imyambaro iracyiyongera, cyane cyane mubihugu bikiri mu nzira y'amajyambere.

Nyamara, imyumvire mibi yabaguzi yimiti munganda zimyenda ntabwo yahimbwe gusa. Buri kigo gikora imyenda ku isi hose (harimo n’ikigo cyahoze gikora imyenda) byanze bikunze kiboneka aho cyo gucapa no gusiga amarangi y’amazi “gusiga” inzira y’amazi hafi y’iterambere runaka. Ku nganda zikora imyenda mu bihugu bimwe bikiri mu nzira y'amajyambere, ibi birashobora kuba ukuri guhoraho. Amabara meza yinzuzi yabaye imwe mumashyirahamwe akomeye abakoresha bafite imyenda nimyenda.

Ku rundi ruhande, ikibazo cy’ibisigazwa by’imiti ku myambaro, cyane cyane ibisigazwa by’ibintu byangiza kandi byangiza, byateje impungenge bamwe mu baguzi ku buzima n’umutekano w’imyenda. Ibi bigaragara cyane mubabyeyi b'impinja. Dufashe urugero rwa fordehide, mubijyanye no gushariza, rubanda nyamwinshi izi ingaruka za fordehide, ariko abantu bake ni bo bitondera ibikubiye muri fordehide mugihe baguze imyenda. Mubikorwa byo gukora imyenda, ibikoresho byo gusiga amarangi hamwe na resin yo kurangiza ikoreshwa mugutunganya amabara no kwirinda inkari zirimo fordehide. Imyunyu ngugu ya fordehide ikabije irashobora gutera uburakari bukabije kuruhu no guhumeka. Kwambara imyenda hamwe na fordehide ikabije igihe kirekire birashoboka gutera uburwayi bwubuhumekero na dermatite.

Imiti yimyenda ugomba kwitondera

formaldehyde

Ikoreshwa mu kurangiza imyenda kugirango ifashe gutunganya amabara no kwirinda inkari, ariko hari impungenge zerekeye isano iri hagati ya formaldehyde na kanseri zimwe.

icyuma kiremereye

Irangi hamwe na pigment birashobora kuba birimo ibyuma biremereye nka gurş, mercure, kadmium, na chromium, bimwe muribi byangiza sisitemu yimitsi nimpyiko.

Alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether

Bikunze kuboneka muri surfactants, ibintu byinjira, ibikoresho byogajuru, koroshya, nibindi, iyo byinjiye mumazi y’amazi, byangiza ibinyabuzima bimwe na bimwe byo mu mazi, bitera umwanda w’ibidukikije kandi byangiza ibidukikije.

Kubuza amarangi ya azo

Irangi ryabujijwe ryimurwa riva mu myenda irangi irangi ku ruhu, kandi mu bihe bimwe na bimwe, kugabanuka kugabanuka, kurekura amine ya kanseri ya kanseri;

Benzene chloride na chloride ya toluene

Ibisigara kuri polyester hamwe nigitambara kivanze, byangiza abantu nibidukikije, birashobora gutera kanseri nubumuga bwinyamaswa

Fthalate ester

Amashanyarazi asanzwe. Nyuma yo guhura nabana, cyane cyane nyuma yo konsa, biroroshye kwinjira mumubiri bigatera ingaruka

Uku nukuri ko kuruhande rumwe, imiti ningirakamaro byingenzi, kurundi ruhande, gukoresha nabi imiti bitera ingaruka zikomeye kubidukikije no kubuzima. Ni muri urwo rwego,gucunga no gukurikirana imiti yabaye ikibazo cyihutirwa kandi cyingenzi cyugarije inganda n’imyenda n’imyenda, ifitanye isano n’iterambere rirambye ry’inganda.

Gucunga imiti no gukurikirana

Mubyukuri, mu mabwiriza y’ibihugu bitandukanye, hibandwa ku miti y’imyenda, kandi hariho amategeko abuza gutanga uruhushya, uburyo bwo gupima, nuburyo bwo gusuzuma ibipimo by’ibyuka bihumanya hamwe na lisiti ikoreshwa kuri buri miti. Dufashe urugero rwa fordehide, uburinganire bw’igihugu cy’Ubushinwa GB18401-2010 “Ibanze ry’umutekano w’ibanze ku bicuruzwa by’imyenda y’igihugu” bivuga neza ko ibintu bya fordehide biri mu myenda n’imyenda bitagomba kurenza 20mg / kg ku cyiciro cya A (ibicuruzwa by’uruhinja n’uruhinja), 75mg / kg ku cyiciro B (ibicuruzwa bihura neza nuruhu rwabantu), na 300mg / kg kumasomo ya C (ibicuruzwa bitajya bihura nuruhu rwabantu). Icyakora, hari itandukaniro rikomeye mu mabwiriza hagati y’ibihugu bitandukanye, ari nako biganisha ku kubura amahame n’uburyo bumwe bwo gucunga imiti mu bikorwa nyabyo byo kuyishyira mu bikorwa, biba imwe mu mbogamizi mu micungire y’imiti no gukurikirana.

Mu myaka icumi ishize, inganda nazo zagiye zishishikarira kugenzura no gukora mu micungire y’imiti. Isoko rya Zeru rya Hazardous Chemicals Foundation (ZDHC Foundation) ryashinzwe mu 2011, rihagarariye ibikorwa by’inganda. Inshingano zayo ni uguha imbaraga imyenda, imyambaro, uruhu, ninkweto zinkweto, abadandaza, hamwe nuruhererekane rwabo kugirango bashyire mubikorwa uburyo bwiza bwo gucunga imiti irambye murwego rwagaciro, kandi duharanire kugera kuntego ya zeru zangiza imyuka yangiza binyuze mubufatanye, bisanzwe iterambere, no kubishyira mu bikorwa.

Kugeza ubu, ibirango byagiranye amasezerano na ZDHC Foundation byiyongereye kuva kuri 6 bigera kuri 30, harimo imideli izwi cyane ku isi nka Adidas, H&M, NIKE, na Kaiyun Group. Muri ibyo bicuruzwa byamamaye mu nganda n’inganda, imicungire y’imiti nayo yabaye ikintu cyingenzi cy’ingamba zirambye z’iterambere, kandi hasabwa ibisabwa ku babitanga.

Hamwe n’abantu benshi bakeneye imyambaro yangiza ibidukikije kandi ifite ubuzima bwiza, amasosiyete n’ibirango byinjira mu micungire y’imiti mu bitekerezo by’ingamba kandi bigira uruhare rugaragara mu bikorwa bifatika byo gutanga ibidukikije byangiza ibidukikije kandi bifite ubuzima bwiza ku isoko nta gushidikanya ko bifite isoko ryo guhangana ku isoko. Kuri iyi ngingo,sisitemu yizewe yizewe hamwe nibirango byemeza birashobora gufasha ibirango nubucuruzi kurushaho kuvugana nabaguzi no gushiraho ikizere.

Bumwe muri ubu buryo buzwi bwo gupima no gutanga ibyemezo mu nganda ni STANDARD 100 na OEKO-TEX ®。 Ni uburyo bwo kwipimisha no kwipimisha ku isi hose kandi bwigenga bukora ibizamini byangiza ibintu byose by’ibikoresho by’imyenda, byuzuye kandi birangiye ibicuruzwa, kimwe nibikoresho byose bifasha mugutunganya. Ntabwo ikubiyemo gusa ibyangombwa bisabwa n'amategeko n’amategeko, ahubwo ikubiyemo ibintu by’imiti byangiza ubuzima ariko ntibigenzurwe n’amategeko, hamwe n’ibipimo by’ubuvuzi bibungabunga ubuzima bw’abantu.

Urusobe rw’ibidukikije rwigiye ku kigo cyigenga cyo gupima no gutanga ibyemezo by’imyenda yo mu Busuwisi n’ibicuruzwa by’uruhu, TestEX (WeChat: TestEX-OEKO-TEX), ko ibipimo byo gutahura n’indangagaciro za STANDARD 100 akenshi usanga bikomereye kuruta ibyo mu gihugu kandi amahame mpuzamahanga, aracyafata formaldehyde nkurugero. Ibisabwa ku bicuruzwa ku bana bato ndetse n’abana bato bari munsi y’imyaka itatu ntibigomba kumenyekana, hamwe no guhura n’ibicuruzwa by’uruhu bitarenze 75mg / kg kandi ntaho bihuriye n’ibicuruzwa by’uruhu bitarenze 150mg / kg, ibikoresho byo gushushanya ntibishobora kurenga 300mg / kg. Mubyongeyeho, STANDARD 100 nayo irimo ibintu bigera kuri 300 bishobora guteza akaga. Kubwibyo, niba ubonye ikirango cya STANDARD 100 kumyenda yawe, bivuze ko yatsinze ikizamini gikomeye cyimiti yangiza.

Mubikorwa bya B2B, label ya STANDARD 100 nayo yemerwa ninganda nkikimenyetso cyo gutanga. Ni muri urwo rwego, ibigo byigenga bipima kandi byemeza nka TTS bikora nk'ikiraro cyizere hagati y’ibirango n’abakora ibicuruzwa, bigatuma ubufatanye bwiza hagati y’impande zombi. TTS kandi ni umufatanyabikorwa wa ZDHC, ifasha guteza imbere intego ya zeru zeru ziterwa n’imiti yangiza mu nganda z’imyenda.

Muri rusange,nta tandukaniro ryiza cyangwa ribi riri hagati yimiti yimyenda. Urufunguzo ruri mu micungire no gukurikirana, nikibazo cyingenzi kijyanye nibidukikije nubuzima bwabantu. Irasaba guteza imbere guhuriza hamwe amashyaka atandukanye ashinzwe, guhuza amategeko yigihugu no guhuza amategeko n’amabwiriza hagati y’ibihugu n’uturere dutandukanye, kwiyobora no kuzamura inganda, hamwe n’imikorere ifatika y’inganda mu musaruro, Hariho a bikenewe cyane kubakoresha kugirango bazamure ibidukikije n’ubuzima bakeneye imyambaro yabo. Gusa muri ubu buryo ibikorwa "bidafite uburozi" byinganda zerekana imideli bishobora kuba impamo mugihe kizaza.