Uburyo bwo gupima kugabanuka kwimyenda

01. Kugabanuka ni iki

Umwenda ni umwenda wa fibrous, kandi nyuma yuko fibre ubwazo zimaze gufata amazi, bazagira urugero runaka rwo kubyimba, ni ukuvuga kugabanuka kwuburebure no kwiyongera kwa diameter. Itandukaniro ryijanisha hagati yuburebure bwimyenda mbere na nyuma yo kwibizwa mumazi nuburebure bwumwimerere bikunze kwitwa igipimo cyo kugabanuka. Nubushobozi bukomeye bwo gufata amazi, niko kubyimba bikabije, niko umuvuduko wo kugabanuka, hamwe nubukene buke bwimyenda.

Uburebure bw'igitambara ubwabwo buratandukanye n'uburebure bw'intambara (silk) yakoreshejwe, kandi itandukaniro riri hagati yibi byombi risobanurwa no kugabanuka kuboha.

Igipimo cyo kugabanuka (%) = [ubudodo (ubudodo) uburebure bwurudodo - uburebure bwimyenda] / uburebure bwimyenda

Nyuma yo kwibizwa mumazi, kubera kubyimba kwa fibre ubwabo, uburebure bwimyenda buragabanuka, bikaviramo kugabanuka. Igabanuka ryigitambara riratandukanye bitewe nigipimo cyacyo cyo kugabanuka. Igipimo cyo kugabanuka cyo kuboha kiratandukanye bitewe nimiterere yubuyobozi hamwe nuburemere bwimyenda ubwayo. Iyo impagarara zo kuboha ari nke, umwenda urakomeye kandi muremure, kandi igipimo cyo kugabanuka cyo kuboha ni kinini, igipimo cyo kugabanuka kwimyenda iba nto; Iyo impagarara zo kuboha ari nyinshi, umwenda uba urekuye, woroshye, kandi igipimo cyo kugabanuka kikaba gito, bikavamo umuvuduko mwinshi wigitambara. Mu gusiga irangi no kurangiza, kugirango hagabanuke igipimo cyo kugabanuka kwimyenda, kurangiza mbere yo kugabanya akenshi bikoreshwa mukongera ubwinshi bwimyenda, mbere yo kongera igipimo cyo kugabanuka kwimyenda, bityo bikagabanya igipimo cyo kugabanuka kwimyenda.

02.Impamvu zo kugabanuka kwimyenda

Impamvu zo kugabanuka kwimyenda zirimo:

Mugihe cyo kuzunguruka, kuboha, no gusiga irangi, fibre yintambara mumyenda irambuye cyangwa igahinduka kubera imbaraga zo hanze. Mugihe kimwe, fibre yintambara nuburyo bwimyenda bitera guhangayika imbere. Muri static yumwanya wo kwidagadura, static wet relaxation reta, cyangwa dinamike itose yo kuruhuka, impamyabumenyi zitandukanye zo mumbere zirekurwa kugirango zigarure fibre yimyenda nigitambara muburyo bwambere.

Fibre zitandukanye hamwe nigitambara cyabo bifite impamyabumenyi zitandukanye zo kugabanuka, cyane cyane bitewe nibiranga fibre zabo - fibre hydrophilique ifite urwego runini rwo kugabanuka, nka pamba, imyenda, viscose nizindi fibre; Nyamara, hydrophobique fibre ifite kugabanuka gake, nka fibre synthique.

Iyo fibre imeze neza, irabyimba mugikorwa cyo kwibiza, bigatuma diameter ya fibre yiyongera. Kurugero, kumyenda, ibi bihatira radiyo igoramye ya fibre kumwanya wo guhuza imyenda kugirango yiyongere, bikavamo uburebure buke bwigitambara. Kurugero, fibre fibre yabyimbye munsi yamazi, byongera ubuso bwambukiranya ibice 40-50% nuburebure bwa 1-2%, mugihe fibre synthique yerekana ubusanzwe igabanuka ryumuriro, nko kugabanuka kwamazi abira, hafi 5%.

Mugihe cyubushyuhe, imiterere nubunini bwimyenda yimyenda irahinduka kandi ikagabanuka, ariko ntishobora gusubira muburyo bwambere nyuma yo gukonja, ibyo bita fibre therm shrinkage. Ijanisha ry'uburebure mbere na nyuma yo kugabanuka k'ubushyuhe bita igipimo cyo kugabanuka k'ubushyuhe, ubusanzwe bugaragazwa nk'ijanisha ry'uburebure bwa fibre igabanuka mu mazi abira kuri 100 ℃; Birashoboka kandi gupima ijanisha ryo kugabanuka mukirere gishyushye hejuru ya 100 ℃ ukoresheje uburyo bwumuyaga ushyushye, cyangwa gupima ijanisha ryo kugabanuka mumashanyarazi hejuru ya 100 ℃ ukoresheje uburyo bwa parike. Imikorere ya fibre iratandukanye mubihe bitandukanye nkimiterere yimbere, ubushyuhe bwubushyuhe, nigihe. Kurugero, mugihe utunganya fibre polyester staple fibre, igabanuka ryamazi abira ni 1%, igipimo cyamazi yo kugabanuka ya vinylon ni 5%, naho kugabanuka kwikirere gishyushye cya chloroprene ni 50%. Ihagarikwa ryimiterere ya fibre mugutunganya imyenda nigitambara bifitanye isano ya hafi, bitanga ishingiro ryogushushanya inzira ikurikira.

03.Igabanuka ryigitambara gitandukanye

Urebye igipimo cyo kugabanuka, umuto ni fibre synthique hamwe nigitambara kivanze, hagakurikiraho imyenda yubwoya nubudodo, imyenda yipamba hagati, imyenda yubudodo hamwe no kugabanuka kwinshi, kandi nini nini ni fibre ya viscose, ipamba yubukorikori, nubudodo bwubukorikori.

Igabanuka ryigitambara rusange ni:

Impamba 4% -10%;

Imiti ya chimique 4% -8%;

Ipamba polyester 3.5% -55%;

3% kumyenda yera yera;

3% -4% kumyenda yubururu yubwoya;

Poplin ni 3-4%;

Umwenda w'indabyo ni 3-3.5%;

Impuzu zibiri ni 4%;

Imyenda y'akazi ni 10%;

Ipamba yubukorikori ni 10%

04.Ibintu bigira ingaruka ku gipimo cyo kugabanuka

Ibikoresho bito: Igabanuka ryimyenda iratandukanye bitewe nibikoresho fatizo byakoreshejwe. Muri rusange, fibre hamwe nubushuhe bwinshi bwiyongera bizaguka, byiyongere kuri diameter, bigabanye uburebure, kandi bifite umuvuduko mwinshi wo kugabanuka nyuma yo kwibizwa mumazi. Niba fibre zimwe na zimwe za viscose zifite igipimo cyo kwinjiza amazi kugera kuri 13%, mugihe imyenda ya fibre synthique ifite ububobere buke bwo gufata neza, kugabanuka kwayo ni nto.

Ubucucike: Igipimo cyo kugabanuka kiratandukanye bitewe nubucucike bwimyenda. Niba ubucucike burebure na latitudinal busa, ibipimo byo kugabanuka kwigihe kirekire na latitudinal nabyo birasa. Umwenda ufite ubwinshi bwintambara uzagabanuka cyane, mugihe umwenda ufite ubucucike burenze ubwinshi bwintambara bizagabanuka cyane.

Ubunini bwimyenda yimyenda: Igabanuka ryigitambara riratandukanye bitewe nubunini bwimibare yimyenda. Imyenda ifite ibara rinini cyane ifite igipimo cyo kugabanuka cyane, mugihe imyenda ifite ibara ryiza rifite igipimo gito cyo kugabanuka.

Uburyo bwo kubyaza umusaruro: Uburyo butandukanye bwo gukora imyenda bivamo ibiciro bitandukanye byo kugabanuka. Muri rusange, mugihe cyo kuboha no gusiga irangi no kurangiza imyenda, fibre igomba kuramburwa inshuro nyinshi, kandi igihe cyo kuyitunganya ni kirekire. Igabanuka ryigitambara hamwe nigitutu kinini gikoreshwa ni hejuru, naho ubundi.

Ibigize fibre: Fibre yibimera bisanzwe (nka pamba nigitambara) hamwe nudusimba twibimera (nka viscose) bikunze kwibasirwa nubushuhe no kwaguka ugereranije na fibre synthique (nka polyester na acrylic), bigatuma igabanuka ryinshi. Ku rundi ruhande, ubwoya bukunda guhindagurika bitewe nubunini bwubunini hejuru ya fibre, bigira ingaruka kumiterere yabwo.

Imiterere yimyenda: Muri rusange, ihame ryimiterere yimyenda iboshywe iruta iy'imyenda iboshye; Ihagarikwa ryimiterere yimyenda ihanitse iruta iy'imyenda mike. Mubitambara biboshywe, igipimo cyo kugabanuka kwimyenda isanzwe isanzwe iri munsi ugereranije nigitambara cya flannel; Mu myenda iboshywe, igipimo cyo kugabanuka kwimyenda isanzwe iboshye kiri munsi yicy'imyenda y'urubavu.

Igikorwa cyo gutunganya no gutunganya: Bitewe no kurambura byanze bikunze umwenda ukoresheje imashini mugihe cyo gusiga, gucapa, no kurangiza, impagarara zibaho kumyenda. Ariko, imyenda irashobora kugabanya byoroshye impagarara iyo ihuye namazi, kuburyo dushobora kubona kugabanuka nyuma yo gukaraba. Mubikorwa bifatika, mubisanzwe dukoresha pre shrinkage kugirango dukemure iki kibazo.

Uburyo bwo gukaraba bwo gukaraba: Kwiyuhagira bikubiyemo gukaraba, gukama, no gucuma, buri kimwe muri byo kizagira ingaruka ku kugabanuka kwimyenda. Kurugero, intoki zogejwe nintoki zifite ihame ryiza kuruta imashini zogejwe, kandi ubushyuhe bwo gukaraba nabwo bugira ingaruka kumiterere yabyo. Muri rusange, ubushyuhe buri hejuru, niko ubukene butajegajega.

Uburyo bwo kumisha icyitegererezo nabwo bugira ingaruka zikomeye ku kugabanuka kwimyenda. Uburyo bukoreshwa muburyo bwo gukanika burimo gukama ibitonyanga, gukwirakwiza inshundura zicyuma, kumanika kumanika, no gukama ingoma. Uburyo bwo kumisha ibitonyanga bugira ingaruka nke mubunini bwimyenda, mugihe uburyo bwo kumisha ingoma izenguruka bigira ingaruka zikomeye kubunini bwimyenda, hamwe nibindi bibiri biri hagati.

Byongeye kandi, guhitamo ubushyuhe bukwiye bushingiye kumiterere yigitambara birashobora kandi kunoza kugabanuka kwimyenda. Kurugero, impamba nigitambara birashobora kuzamura igipimo cyabyo cyo kugabanya ubushyuhe bwo hejuru. Ariko ntabwo aruko ubushyuhe bwo hejuru bumeze neza. Kuri fibre synthique, ibyuma byo hejuru yubushyuhe ntibishobora gusa kunoza kugabanuka kwabo, ariko kandi birashobora no kwangiza imikorere yabyo, nko gukora umwenda ukomeye kandi ucika.

05.Uburyo bwo gupima Shrinkage

Uburyo bukoreshwa mubugenzuzi bwo kugabanya imyenda harimo guhumeka no gukaraba.

Gufata urugero rwo gukaraba amazi nkurugero, uburyo bwo gupima igipimo cyo kugabanuka nuburyo bukurikira:

Icyitegererezo: Fata ibyitegererezo mubice bimwe by'imyenda, byibura metero 5 uvuye kumutwe. Icyitegererezo cyimyenda cyatoranijwe ntigomba kugira inenge igira ingaruka kubisubizo. Icyitegererezo kigomba kuba gikwiye gukaraba amazi, hamwe nubugari bwa 70cm kugeza 80cm. Nyuma yo gushira bisanzwe mumasaha 3, shyira icyitegererezo cya 50cm * 50cm hagati yigitambara, hanyuma ukoreshe ikaramu yumutwe kugirango ushushanye imirongo kumpande.

Igishushanyo cy'icyitegererezo: Shyira icyitegererezo hejuru yuburinganire, korohereza ibisebe nibidasanzwe, nturambure, kandi ntukoreshe imbaraga mugihe ushushanya imirongo kugirango wirinde kwimuka.

Icyitegererezo cyogejwe n'amazi: Kugira ngo wirinde guhindura ibara ryerekana umwanya nyuma yo gukaraba, ni ngombwa kudoda (umwenda wububiko bubiri, umwenda umwe uboshye). Iyo udoda, gusa uruhande rwintambara hamwe nuburinganire bwuruhande rwigitambara rugomba kudoda, kandi imyenda iboshywe igomba kudoda kumpande zose hamwe na elastique ikwiye. Imyenda yoroheje cyangwa yatatanye byoroshye igomba guhindurwa nudodo dutatu kumpande zose. Imodoka ntangarugero imaze kwitegura, shyira mumazi ashyushye kuri dogere selisiyusi 30, kwoza ukoresheje imashini imesa, uyumishe hamwe n'akuma cyangwa umwuka wumisha bisanzwe, hanyuma ukonje neza muminota 30 mbere yo gukora ibipimo bifatika.

Kubara: Igipimo cyo kugabanuka = ​​(ingano mbere yo gukaraba - ingano nyuma yo gukaraba) / ubunini mbere yo gukaraba x 100%. Muri rusange, igipimo cyo kugabanuka kwimyenda haba mubyerekezo byintambara no kuboha bigomba gupimwa.