Uburyo rusange bwo kugenzura imyenda ni "uburyo bwo gutanga amanota ane". Muri iyi "manota ine", amanota ntarengwa kuri inenge iyo ari yo yose ni ane. Nubwo inenge zingahe ziri mu mwenda, amanota yinenge kuri metero yumurongo ntashobora kurenga amanota ane.
Igipimo cy'amanota ane kirashobora gukoreshwa kumyenda iboshywe, hamwe n'amanota 1-4 yakuweho bitewe n'ubunini n'uburemere bw'inenge
Nigute ushobora gukoresha sisitemu enye kugirango ukore igenzura ryumwuga imyenda?
Igipimo cyo gutanga amanota
1. Inenge ziri mu ntambara, ubudodo n’izindi nzira zizasuzumwa hakurikijwe ibi bikurikira:
Ingingo imwe: uburebure bw'inenge ni santimetero 3 cyangwa munsi yayo
Ingingo ebyiri: uburebure bw'inenge burenze santimetero 3 na munsi ya santimetero 6
Ingingo eshatu: uburebure bwinenge burenze santimetero 6 na munsi ya santimetero 9
Ingingo enye: uburebure bw'inenge burenze santimetero 9
2. Ihame ryo gutanga amanota yinenge:
A. Gukuramo inenge zose zintambara hamwe nubudodo mu gikari kimwe ntibishobora kurenza amanota 4.
B. Ku nenge zikomeye, buri mbuga yinenge izashyirwa ku manota ane. Kurugero: Ibyobo byose, umwobo, hatitawe kuri diameter, bizashyirwa ku manota ane.
C. Ku nenge zikomeje, nka: rung, itandukaniro ryamabara, impande zombi, ikidodo kigufi cyangwa ubugari bwimyenda idasanzwe, igikonjo, irangi ridahwanye, nibindi, buri mbuga yinenge igomba guhabwa amanota ane.
D. Nta ngingo zizakurwa muri 1 ″ ya selvage
E. Hatitawe ku ntambara cyangwa ubudodo, uko inenge yaba imeze kose, ihame rigomba kugaragara, kandi amanota meza azakurwaho ukurikije amanota afite inenge.
F. Usibye amabwiriza yihariye (nko gutwikira kaseti), mubisanzwe hagomba kugenzurwa uruhande rwimbere rwimyenda yimyenda.
2. Kugenzura
1. Uburyo bwo gutoranya:
1) Igenzura rya AATCC hamwe nicyitegererezo:
A. Umubare wintangarugero: kugwiza imizi ya kare kwumubare wuzuye wa metero umunani.
B. Umubare w'icyitegererezo cy'udusanduku: imizi ya kare kare yumubare wuzuye.
2) Icyitegererezo cy'icyitegererezo:
Guhitamo impapuro zigomba gusuzumwa ntabwo byanze bikunze.
Uruganda rukora imyenda rurasabwa kwereka umugenzuzi urupapuro rwo gupakira mugihe byibuze 80% byimizingo mubice byapakiwe. Umugenzuzi azahitamo impapuro zigomba kugenzurwa.
Umugenzuzi amaze guhitamo imizingo igomba kugenzurwa, nta yandi mahinduka ashobora gukorwa ku mubare w’ibizamini ugomba kugenzurwa cyangwa ku mibare yatoranijwe kugira ngo igenzurwe. Mugihe cyo kugenzura, nta yardage yimyenda igomba gukurwa kumuzingo uwo ariwo wose usibye kwandika no kugenzura ibara.
Imizingo yose yimyenda isuzumwa irapimwe kandi amanota yinenge arasuzumwa.
2. Amanota yikizamini
1) Kubara amanota
Ihame, nyuma ya buri muzingo wimyenda imaze kugenzurwa, amanota arashobora kongerwaho. Hanyuma, amanota asuzumwa ukurikije urwego rwo kwemererwa, ariko kubera ko kashe zitandukanye zigomba kuba zifite urwego rutandukanye rwo kwemererwa, niba formula ikurikira ikoreshwa mukubara amanota ya buri muzingo wigitambara kuri metero kare 100, igomba kubarwa kuri Imetero kare 100 Ukurikije amanota yagaragajwe hepfo, urashobora gukora igipimo cyamanota kubidodo bitandukanye.
A = (Ingingo zose x 3600) / (Yard yagenzuwe x Ubugari bwimyenda ikata) = amanota kuri metero kare 100
2) Urwego rwo kwemerera ubwoko bwimyenda itandukanye
Ubwoko butandukanye bwimyenda igabanijwemo ibyiciro bine bikurikira
Andika | Ubwoko bw'igitambara | Gutanga Umubumbe umwe | Kunegura rwose |
Umwenda | |||
Imyenda yose yakozwe n'abantu, polyester / Nylon / Ibicuruzwa bya Acetate | Shirting, imyenda yakozwe n'abantu, ubwoya bubi | 20 | 16 |
DenimCanvas | Amashati ya poplin / Oxford yambuwe cyangwa gingham, azunguruka imyenda yakozwe n'abantu, imyenda yubwoya, imyenda yambuwe cyangwa yagenzuwe / irangi irangi irangi, imyenda yose yihariye, jacquards / Dobby corduroy / velhet / kurambura denim / Imyenda yubukorikori / Imvange. | 28 | 20 |
Linen, muslin | Linen, muslin | 40 | 32 |
Dopioni silk / silike yoroheje | Dopioni silk / silike yoroheje | 50 | 40 |
Igitambara | |||
Imyenda yose yakozwe n'abantu, polyester / Nylon / Ibicuruzwa bya Acetate | Rayon, ubwoya bubi cyane, ivanze | 20 | 16 |
Imyenda yose yabigize umwuga | Jacquard / Dobby corduroy, spun rayon, imyenda yubwoya, irangi irangi irangi, velhet / spandex | 25 | 20 |
Umwenda wibanze | Ipamba ikomatanyije / ivanga ipamba | 30 | 25 |
Umwenda wibanze | Umwenda w'ipamba | 40 | 32 |
Umuzingo umwe wimyenda irenze amanota yagenwe uzashyirwa mubyiciro bya kabiri.
Niba impuzandengo y'amanota kuri tombora yose irenze urwego rwateganijwe, ubufindo bufatwa nkaho bwatsinzwe igenzura.
3. amanota yo kugenzura: Ibindi bitekerezo byo gusuzuma amanota yimyenda
Inenge zasubiwemo:
1), inenge zose zasubiwemo cyangwa zisubiramo zizaba zifite inenge nyinshi. Ingingo enye zigomba gutangwa kuri buri gikari cyimyenda kubera inenge zasubiwemo.
2) Nubwo amanota yinenge yaba angana kose, umuzingo uwo ariwo wose ufite metero zirenga icumi yimyenda irimo inenge zisubirwamo ugomba gufatwa nkutujuje ibyangombwa.
Nigute ushobora gukoresha sisitemu enye kugirango ukore igenzura ryumwuga imyenda yimyenda
Ubugari bwuzuye:
3) Ibizingo birimo inenge zirenze enye zuzuye muri buri 100y2 ntibishobora gupimwa nkibicuruzwa byo mu rwego rwa mbere.
4) Umuzingo urimo inenge zirenze imwe kuri metero 10 kumurongo ugereranije uzafatwa nkuwujuje ibyangombwa, nubwo inenge zaba ziri muri 100y.
5) Umuzingo urimo inenge ikomeye muri 3y yumutwe wigitambara cyangwa umurizo wigitambara ugomba gupimwa nkutujuje ibyangombwa. Inenge zikomeye zizasuzumwa ingingo eshatu cyangwa enye.
6) Niba umwenda ufite imigozi irekuye cyangwa ifatanye kumurongo umwe, cyangwa hariho imvururu, iminkanyari, ibisebe cyangwa ibisebe kumubiri nyamukuru wigitambara, ibi bintu bituma imyenda idahwanye mugihe umwenda ufunguye muburyo busanzwe; . Ibice nkibi ntibishobora gutondekwa nkicyiciro cya mbere.
7) Mugihe ugenzura umuzingo wigitambara, reba ubugari bwacyo byibuze inshuro eshatu mugitangiriro, hagati, nimpera. Niba ubugari bwumuzingo wigitambara bwegereye ubugari ntarengwa bwagenwe cyangwa ubugari bwigitambara ntabwo ari bumwe, noneho umubare wubugenzuzi bwubugari bwumuzingo ugomba kwiyongera.
8) Niba ubugari bwumuzingo buri munsi yubugari ntarengwa bwaguzwe, umuzingo uzafatwa nkuwujuje ibyangombwa.
9) Ku myenda iboshywe, niba ubugari ari ubugari bwa santimetero 1 kuruta ubugari bwaguzwe, umuzingo uzafatwa nkuwujuje ibyangombwa. Nyamara, kumyenda iboshye ya elastike, niyo yaba ifite ubugari bwa santimetero 2 kurenza ubugari bwagenwe, irashobora kuba yujuje ibisabwa. Ku myenda iboshye, niba ubugari ari ubugari bwa santimetero 2 kurenza ubugari bwagenwe, umuzingo uzangwa. Nyamara, kumyenda yububiko, nubwo yaba ifite ubugari bwa santimetero 3 kurenza ubugari bwagenwe, birashobora gufatwa nkibyemewe.
10) Ubugari rusange bwimyenda bivuga intera iri hagati ya selvage yo hanze kuruhande rumwe kugeza selvage yo hanze kurundi ruhande.
Ubugari bwimyenda ikata nubugari bupimye nta selvedge na / cyangwa kudoda pinholes, bidacapishijwe, bidatwikiriwe cyangwa ibindi bice bitavuwe byumubiri wigitambara.
Isuzuma ry'amabara atandukanye:
11) Itandukaniro ryamabara hagati yizingo nizunguruka, ibyiciro nibice ntibishobora kuba munsi yinzego enye mubipimo byimyenda ya AATCC.
12) Mugihe cyo kugenzura imyenda, fata 6 ~ 10 santimetero z'ubugari butandukanye bw'imyenda itandukanye kuri buri muzingo, umugenzuzi azakoresha uruhu rwimyenda kugirango agereranye itandukaniro ryamabara mumuzingo umwe cyangwa itandukaniro ryamabara hagati yimizingo itandukanye.
13. Kugenzura imizingo yagenzuwe, buri mbuga yimyenda ifite inenge-itandukaniro-inenge izashyirwa amanota ane kuri yard.
14) Niba umwenda ugomba kugenzurwa udahuye nicyitegererezo cyemewe cyatanzwe mbere, itandukaniro ryibara ryacyo rigomba kuba munsi yurwego rwa 4-5 mumeza yikigina, naho ubundi iki cyiciro cyibicuruzwa kizafatwa nkibidafite ishingiro.
Uburebure:
15) Niba uburebure nyabwo bwumuzingo umwe butandukanijwe burenze 2% uhereye kuburebure bwerekanwe kuri label, umuzingo uzafatwa nkuwujuje ibyangombwa. Kubizingo bifite uburebure buringaniye, amanota yabo afite inenge ntagisuzumwa, ariko agomba kwerekanwa kuri raporo yubugenzuzi.
16) Niba igiteranyo cy'uburebure bw'icyitegererezo cyose cyatandukanijwe na 1% cyangwa kirenga uhereye ku burebure bwerekanwe ku kirango, icyiciro cyose cy'ibicuruzwa kizafatwa nk'ibidafite ishingiro.
Kwinjira:
17) Ku myenda iboshywe, umuzingo wose wimyenda urashobora guhuzwa nibice byinshi, keretse iyo biteganijwe ukundi mumasezerano yubuguzi, niba umuzingo wigitambara urimo igice gihuriweho gifite uburebure buri munsi ya 40y, umuzingo uzamenyekana. ntabwo yujuje ibisabwa.
Ku mwenda uboshye, umuzingo wose urashobora gukorwa mubice byinshi byahujwe, keretse iyo byavuzwe ukundi mumasezerano yubuguzi, niba umuzingo urimo igice cyahujwe gipima munsi yibiro 30, umuzingo uzashyirwa mubikorwa nkutujuje ibyangombwa.
Weft oblique n'umuheto weft:
18) Kubitambara biboheye kandi biboheye, imyenda yose yacapwe cyangwa imyenda irambuye ifite imiheto irenga 2% yububiko hamwe na diagonal; kandi imyenda mibi yose ifite skew irenze 3% ntishobora gushyirwa mubyiciro byambere.
Kata umwenda werekeza ku cyerekezo, hanyuma ugerageze kwizirika ku cyerekezo cya weft yunamye kure hashoboka;
Kuraho imyenda yenda umwe umwe;
Kugeza igihe cyo gushushanya cyuzuye;
Nigute ushobora gukoresha sisitemu enye kugirango ukore igenzura ryumwuga imyenda yimyenda
Gwizamo kabiri kuruhande rwintambara, hamwe nimpande zisukuye, hanyuma upime intera iri hagati yumwanya muremure nu mwanya wo hasi
Nigute ushobora gukoresha sisitemu enye kugirango ukore igenzura ryumwuga imyenda yimyenda
19) Ku myenda iboshywe, imyenda yose yacapwe kandi irambuye hamwe na skew irenze 2%, kandi imyenda yose ya wick ifite skew irenze 3% ntishobora gushyirwa mubyiciro byambere.
Ku mwenda uboshye, imyenda yose ya wick hamwe nigitambaro cyacapishijwe hamwe na skew irenze 5% ntishobora gushyirwa mubicuruzwa byo mucyiciro cya mbere.
Impumuro y'imyenda:
21) Imizingo yose isohora umunuko ntabwo izatsinda ubugenzuzi.
Urwobo:
22), binyuze mu nenge ziganisha ku kwangirika kwimyenda, uko ingano yangiritse yaba ingana, igomba guhabwa amanota 4. Umwobo ugomba gushiramo imyenda ibiri cyangwa myinshi yamenetse.
Umva:
23) Reba ibyiyumvo byimyenda ubigereranije nicyitegererezo. Mugihe habaye itandukaniro rikomeye, umuzingo uzahabwa amanota nkicyiciro cya kabiri, hamwe n amanota 4 kuri yard. Niba ibyiyumvo byizingo byose bitageze kurwego rwicyitegererezo, ubugenzuzi buzahagarikwa kandi amanota ntazasuzumwa byigihe gito.
Ubucucike:
24) Mu igenzura ryuzuye, byibuze ubugenzuzi bubiri buremewe, kandi ± 5% biremewe, bitabaye ibyo bizafatwa nkutujuje ibyangombwa (nubwo bidakoreshwa kuri sisitemu y amanota 4, bigomba kwandikwa).
Uburemere bw'ikibonezamvugo:
25) Mugihe cyigenzura ryuzuye, byibuze hagenzurwa byibuze bibiri (hamwe nubushyuhe nubushuhe busabwa), kandi ± 5% biremewe, bitabaye ibyo bizafatwa nkibicuruzwa bitujuje ubuziranenge (nubwo bidakoreshwa kuri sisitemu enye; , bigomba kwandikwa).
Reel, ibisabwa byo gupakira:
1) Nta bisabwa bidasanzwe, metero 100 z'uburebure kandi ntibirenza ibiro 150 muburemere.
2) Nta bisabwa bidasanzwe, bigomba gusubirwamo, kandi impapuro ntizigomba kwangirika mugihe cyo gutwara.
3) Diameter yigituba cyimpapuro ni 1.5 ″ -2.0 ″.
4) Ku mpande zombi z'umwenda uzunguruka, igice cyerekanwe ntigomba kurenza 1 ”.
5) Mbere yo kuzinga umwenda, shyira ahantu ibumoso, hagati no iburyo hamwe na kaseti ifata munsi ya 4 ″.
6) Nyuma yumuzingo, kugirango ubuze umuzingo kurekura, koresha 12 ″ kaseti kugirango ukosore ahantu 4.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Nyakanga-31-2022