Mumakore achangopfuura, nekuwedzera kuziva nezvekuchengetedzwa kwezvakatipoteredza pakati peveruzhinji uye nekuenderera mberi kuparadzirwa kwekushandisa zviwanikwa uye nyaya dzekusvibiswa kwezvakatipoteredza mumafashoni kana indasitiri yezvipfeko kuburikidza nesocial media mukati nekunze, vatengi havachaziva nezveimwe data.Semuenzaniso, indasitiri yezvipfeko ndiyo yechipiri pakukura indasitiri inosvibisa pasi rose, yechipiri chete kuindasitiri yeoiri.Semuenzaniso, indasitiri yemafashoni inogadzira 20% yepasi rose tsvina uye 10% yepasi rose kabhoni emissions gore rega rega.
Zvisinei, imwe nyaya inokosha yakaenzana inoita seisingazivikanwe kune vakawanda vatengi.Ndiko: kushandiswa kwemakemikari uye manejimendi muindasitiri yemachira uye yekupfeka.
Makemikari akanaka?Makemikari akaipa?
Kana zvasvika kune makemikari ari muindasitiri yemachira, vatengi vazhinji vanosanganisa kushushikana nekuvapo kwezvinhu zvine muchetura uye zvinokuvadza zvakasiiwa pazvipfeko zvavo, kana mufananidzo wemafekitori embatya anosvibisa nzira dzemvura dzine mvura yakawanda.Maonero haana kunaka.Nekudaro, vatengi vashoma vanonyatsoongorora basa rinoitwa nemakemikari mumachira akadai sembatya nemachira epamba anoshongedza miviri yedu nehupenyu.
Chii chakatanga kubata maziso ako pawakavhura wadhiropu yako?Color.Tsvuku yakatsvuka, yakadzikama yebhuruu, yakatsiga dema, yepepuru isinganzwisisike, inopenya yero, yakanakisa grey, yakachena… Aya mavara ezvipfeko aunoshandisa kuratidza chimwe chikamu chehunhu hwako haagone kuwanikwa pasina makemikari, kana kutaura chaizvo, zvisiri nyore.Tichitora yepepuru semuenzaniso, munhoroondo, zvipfeko zvepepuru kazhinji zvaingove zvevakuru vepamusoro kana vepamusoro nekuti dhayi dzepepuru dzaive dzisingawanzo uye dzinodhura.Pakanga pasati pave kutozosvikira pakati pezana ramakore rechi 19 apo mumwe nyanzvi wekemisitiri wechiduku wokuBritain akawana netsaona komboni yepepuru mukati mekugadzirwa kwequinine, uye ruvara rwepepuru zvishoma nezvishoma rwakava ruvara rwaigona kufarikanya vanhuwo zvavo.
Pamusoro pekupa ruvara kuzvipfeko, makemikari anoitawo basa rakakosha mukunatsiridza mabasa akakosha emachira.Semuyenzaniso, inonyanya kukosha kusapinda kwemvura, kusapfeka uye mamwe mabasa.Kubva pakuona kwakafara, nhanho imwe neimwe yekugadzirwa kwembatya kubva pakugadzirwa kwejira kusvika kune yekupedzisira chigadzirwa chembatya inowirirana zvakanyanya nemakemikari.Mune mamwe mazwi, makemikari imari isingadzivisike muindasitiri yemazuva ano yemucheka.Maererano neGlobal Chemicals Outlook II ya2019 yakaburitswa neUnited Nations Environment Programme, zvinotarisirwa kuti panosvika 2026, pasi rose richashandisa mabhiriyoni makumi matatu nemazana masere emadhora mumakemikari emachira, zvichienzaniswa nemabhiriyoni gumi nemapfumbamwe emadhora muna 2012. Mafungiro ekushandiswa kwemakemikari emachira anoratidzawo kuti kudiwa kwepasi rose kwemachira nezvipfeko kuchiri kuwedzera, kunyanya munyika dzichiri kusimukira nematunhu.
Nekudaro, maonero asina kunaka evatengi emakemikari muindasitiri yezvipfeko haana kungogadzirwa.Nzvimbo yega yega yekugadzira micheka pasi rese (kusanganisira yaimbove nzvimbo dzekugadzira machira) inosangana nechiitiko chekudhinda nekudhaya mvura yetsvina "kudayi" nzira dzemvura dziri padyo pane imwe nhanho yebudiriro.Kune indasitiri yekugadzira machira mune dzimwe nyika dzichiri kusimukira, ichi chinogona kunge chiri chokwadi chirikuenderera mberi.Iwo ane mavara enzizi zviratidziro ave imwe yeakanyanya kusarudzika hukama nevatengi vane machira uye kugadzirwa kwembatya.
Nekune rimwe divi, nyaya yezvisaririra zvemishonga pazvipfeko, zvikuru zvisaririra zvezvinhu zvine muchetura uye zvinokuvadza, yakonzera kushushikana pakati pevamwe vatengi pamusoro pehutano nekuchengetedzeka kwemicheka.Izvi zvinonyanya kuoneka muvabereki vevacheche.Tichitora formaldehyde semuenzaniso, maererano nekushongedza, ruzhinji rwevanhu vanoziva kukuvadza kwe formaldehyde, asi vanhu vashoma vanoteerera kune zviri mukati me formaldehyde pakutenga zvipfeko.Mukugadzira zvipfeko, zvinoyamura zvekudhaya uye resin yekupedzisa maajenti anoshandiswa kugadzirisa mavara uye kudzivirira kuunyana kazhinji ane formaldehyde.Yakawandisa formaldehyde muzvipfeko inogona kukonzera kutsamwa kwakasimba kune ganda uye nzira yekufema.Kupfeka zvipfeko zvine formaldehyde yakawandisa kwenguva yakareba zvinogona kukonzera kuzvimba kwekufema uye dermatitis.
Textile makemikari aunofanira kuteerera
formaldehyde
Inoshandiswa kupedzisa machira kubatsira kugadzirisa mavara uye kudzivirira kuunyana, asi pane kunetsekana nezve hukama pakati pe formaldehyde nemamwe magomarara.
simbi inorema
Dhayi ne pigment zvinogona kunge zvine simbi dzinorema se lead, mercury, cadmium, uye chromium, zvimwe zvacho zvinokuvadza kuhurongwa hwetsinga hwemunhu neitsvo.
Alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether
Inowanzo kuwanikwa muma surfactants, maajenti anopinza, ma detergents, softeners, nezvimwewo, kana achipinda mumvura, zvinokuvadza kune zvimwe zvipenyu zvemumvura, zvichikonzera kusvibiswa kwezvakatipoteredza uye kukuvadza nharaunda.
Rambidza azo dyes
Dhayi dzinorambidzwa dzinotamiswa kubva kumachira akadhayiwa kuenda paganda, uye mune mamwe mamiriro, maitiro ekudzikisa anoitika, achiburitsa carcinogenic anonhuwirira amines.
Benzene chloride uye toluene chloride
Zvakasara papolyester nemachira ayo akasanganiswa, anokuvadza vanhu nenharaunda, anogona kukonzera gomarara uye kuremara mumhuka.
Phthalate ester
A common plasticizer.Mushure mekusangana nevana, kunyanya mushure mekuyamwa, zviri nyore kupinda mumuviri uye kukuvadza
Ichi ichokwadi chekuti kune rumwe rutivi, makemikari akakosha ekuisa, uye kune rimwe divi, kushandiswa zvisina kunaka kwemakemikari kunotakura njodzi dzakakura dzezvakatipoteredza uye hutano.Muchirevo ichi,manejimendi uye kutariswa kwemakemikari yave nyaya yekukurumidzira uye yakakosha inotarisana neindasitiri yemucheka uye yekupfeka, iyo ine chekuita nekusimudzira kwakasimba kweindasitiri.
Kemikari manejimendi uye kutarisa
Muchokwadi, mumirau yenyika dzakasiyana siyana, pane inotariswa pamakemikari emucheka, uye kune akakodzera kurambidzwa kwerezinesi, nzira dzekuyedza, uye nzira dzekuongorora dzemayero ekuburitsa uye anorambidzwa manyorerwo emakemikari ega ega.Tichitora formaldehyde semuenzaniso, yeChina yenyika standard GB18401-2010 "Basic Safety Technical Specifications for National Textile Products" inotaura zvakajeka kuti formaldehyde iri mumicheka nezvipfeko haifanirwe kudarika 20mg/kg yeKirasi A (zvigadzirwa zvevacheche nevadiki), 75mg/ kg yeKirasi B (zvigadzirwa zvinosangana zvakananga neganda remunhu), uye 300mg/kg yeKirasi C (zvigadzirwa zvisingasangani neganda remunhu).Nekudaro, kune misiyano yakakura mumirau pakati penyika dzakasiyana, izvo zvinotungamira zvakare mukushaikwa kwemaitiro akabatana uye nzira dzekutonga kemikari mukuita chaiko kwekuita maitiro, ichiva imwe yematambudziko mukutonga kwemakemikari nekutarisa.
Mumakore gumi adarika, indasitiri yakawedzera kuita zvekuzviongorora uye kuita mune yayo yega kemikari manejimendi.Zero Discharge yeHazardous Chemicals Foundation (ZDHC Foundation), yakavambwa muna 2011, mumiriri wekuita kwakabatana kweindasitiri.Basa rayo ndere kupa simba machira, zvipfeko, matehwe, uye shangu mhando, vatengesi, uye macheni avo ekupa kuti aite zvakanakisa mashandiro emakemikari akasimba mucheni yekukosha, uye kuyedza kuzadzisa chinangwa che zero kuburitswa kwemakemikari ane njodzi kuburikidza nekubatana, chiyero. kusimudzira, nekuita.
Kubva pari zvino, mabhureki akapihwa chibvumirano neZDHC Foundation akawedzera kubva pamakumi matanhatu ekutanga, kusanganisira ane mukurumbira pasi rose mhando dzemafashoni seAdidas, H&M, NIKE, uye Kaiyun Group.Pakati peaya maindasitiri anotungamira mabhureki nemabhizinesi, kutonga kwemakemikari kwavewo chinhu chakakosha chemaitiro ebudiriro, uye zvinodiwa zvinoenderana zvakaiswa kune vanovapa.
Nekuwedzera kuri kuita kudiwa kweveruzhinji kwezvipfeko zvine hushamwari uye zvine hutano, makambani nemhando dzinosanganisira kutonga kwemakemikari mukufunga kwehungwaru uye nekushingaira kuita zviitiko zvinoshanda kupa hushamwari kwezvakatipoteredza uye zvipfeko zvine hutano kumusika pasina kupokana vane kwakawanda kukwikwidza kwemusika.Panguva iyi,inovimbika certification system uye zvitupa zvinyorwa zvinogona kubatsira mhando nemabhizinesi zvakanyanya kutaurirana nevatengi uye kumisikidza kuvimbana.
Imwe yeazvino anozivikanwa engozi yekuyedza uye certification masisitimu muindasitiri iyi STANDARD 100 neOEKO-TEX ®. Iyo yepasirese uye yakazvimiririra yekuyedza uye certification system inoitisa zvinokuvadza zvinhu zvinokuvadza kune ese machira raw materials, semi-akapedza uye apedza. zvigadzirwa, pamwe chete nezvose zvinobatsira mukugadzirisa.Haisi kungovhara zvakakosha zvemutemo uye zvekutonga zvinodiwa, asiwo zvinosanganisira makemikari zvinhu zvinokuvadza kune hutano asi zvisingaenderane nekutonga kwemutemo, pamwe chete nemirairo yekurapa inochengetedza hutano hwevanhu.
Iyo bhizinesi ecosystem yakadzidza kubva kune yakazvimiririra yekuyedza uye certification body yeSwiss textiles uye zvigadzirwa zvematehwe, TestEX (WeChat: TestEX-OEKO-TEX), kuti mazinga ekuona uye ekupedzisira kukosha kwe STANDARD 100 mune dzakawanda zviitiko zvakanyanya kuomarara kupfuura zvinoshanda munyika uye International standards, vachiri kutora formaldehyde semuenzaniso.Izvo zvinodikanwa zvezvigadzirwa zvevacheche nevana vadiki vari pasi pemakore matatu hazvifanirwe kuonekwa, nekubatana zvakananga nezvigadzirwa zveganda zvisingapfuure 75mg/kg uye kusasangana zvakananga nezvigadzirwa zveganda zvisingapfuure 150mg/kg, Zvinhu zvekushongedza hazvipfuuri 300mg/ kg.Pamusoro pezvo, STANDARD 100 inosanganisirawo zvinhu zvinosvika mazana matatu zvinogona kuva nengozi.Naizvozvo, kana iwe ukaona iyo STANDARD 100 label pahembe dzako, zvinoreva kuti yakapfuura kuongororwa kwakasimba kwemakemikari anokuvadza.
Mukutengeserana kweB2B, iyo STANDARD 100 label inogamuchirwawo neindasitiri sehumbowo hwekutumira.Neiyi pfungwa, yakazvimirira yekuyedza uye zvitupa masangano akaita seTTS anoshanda sezambuko rekuvimbana pakati pemhando nevagadziri vazvo, zvichiita kuti kudyidzana kuri nani pakati pemapato ese.TTS inodyidzana neZDHC zvakare, ichibatsira kusimudzira chinangwa chekuburitsa zero yemakemikari anokuvadza muindasitiri yemachira.
Pakazara,hapana mutsauko wakanaka kana usiri pakati pemakemikari emucheka.Chinokosha chiri mukutungamirira uye kutarisa, inova nyaya yakakosha ine chekuita nemhoteredzo uye hutano hwevanhu.Zvinoda kusimudzirwa kwakabatana kwemapato akasiyana ane mutoro, kumisikidzwa kwemitemo yenyika uye kurongeka kwemitemo nemirau pakati penyika dzakasiyana nematunhu, kuzvitonga uye kusimudzira indasitiri, uye maitiro anoshanda emabhizinesi mukugadzira. kudiwa kukuru kwevatengi kukwidza zvakatipoteredza uye hutano zvinodiwa pazvipfeko zvavo.Nenzira iyi chete inogona kuita "zvisina chepfu" zviito zvefashoni yefashoni zvinova zvechokwadi mune ramangwana.
Nguva yekutumira: Kubvumbi-14-2023