Machira akareruka uye matete anonyanya kukodzera kushandiswa munzvimbo uye mamiriro ekunze ane tembiricha. Machira akajairika akasarudzika uye matete machira anosanganisira sirika, chiffon, georgette, girazi shinda, crepe, lace, etc. Inodiwa nevanhu pasi rese nekuda kwekufema kwayo uye kunzwa kwakanaka, uye inoverengera chikamu chikuru chekunze kwenyika yangu.
Ndeapi matambudziko angangoitika mukugadzirwa kwemachira akareruka uye matete, uye maitiro ekugadzirisa nawo? Ngatizvigadzirise pamwe chete.
Chikonzero chekuongorora: Seam wrinkling inokanganisa zvakananga kunaka kwembatya. Zvinowanzokonzeresa kupera kwemusono kunokonzerwa nekunyanya kusawirirana kwemusono, kupera kwemusono kunokonzerwa nekudya kwemachira asina kuenzana, uye shrinkage yemusono inokonzerwa nekusaenzana shrinkage yezvishandiso zvepasi. kuunyana.
Maitiro ekugadzirisa:
Iyo suture tension yakanyanya kusimba:
① Edza kusunungura kunetsana pakati peshinda yekusonesa, mutsara wepazasi uye jira, uye yakavharika shinda zvakanyanya sezvinobvira kudzivirira shrinkage uye deformation yejira;
② Gadzirisa kusimba kwemusono nenzira kwayo, uye density ye stitch inowanzogadziriswa kusvika 10-12 inches per inch. Tsono.
③Sarudza shinda dzekusonesa dzine jira rakafanana kana kuti diki diki, uye edza kushandisa tambo dzakapfava uye dzakatetepa, senge tambo pfupi dzekusona kana shinda dzepanyama dzekusonesa.
Kusaenzana shrinkage yezvishandiso zvepasi:
① Paunenge uchisarudza zvishongedzo, kutarisisa kwakanyanya kunofanirwa kubhadharwa kune iyo fiber kuumbwa uye shrinkage rate, iyo inofanirwa kuenderana nehunhu hwejira, uye mutsauko we shrinkage rate unofanirwa kudzorwa mukati me1%.
② Usati waisa mukugadzira, jira uye zvishongedzo zvinofanirwa kunge zvagara zvakanyungudutswa kuti uwane shrinkage rate uye uone chitarisiko mushure mekupera.
Ongororo yechikonzero: Nekuti shinda yemachira akareruka uye matete akatetepa uye akatetepa, panguva yekumhanya-mhanya yekusona, mafiibhi anovharirwa zviri nyore nemazino akakuvadzwa-akakuvadzwa ekudya, tsoka dzekutsikirira, tsono dzemuchina, maburi eplate retsono, nezvimwe. kana nekuda kwekukurumidza uye kazhinji punctures nemuchina wetsono. Kufambisa kunobaya shinda uye kuomesa shinda yakatenderedza, inowanzozivikanwa se "drawing yarn". Semuenzaniso, pakubaya mabuttonholes neblade pamuchina wekucheka magonhi, faibha dzakatenderedza mabuttonholes dzinowanzodhonzwa nemashizha. Muzviitiko zvakakomba, kukanganisa kweshinda kunogona kuitika.
Maitiro ekugadzirisa:
① Kuti udzivise tsono yemuchina kubva pakukuvadza jira, tsono diki inofanirwa kushandiswa. Panguva imwecheteyo, teerera pakusarudza tsono ine denderedzwa tipi. Aya anotevera akati wandei etsono modhi akakodzera machira akareruka uye matete:
Tsono yeJapan: saizi yetsono 7 ~ 12, S kana J-yakaumbwa netsono tip (yakawedzera diki denderedzwa musoro tsono kana diki denderedzwa musoro tsono);
B European tsono: tsono saizi 60 ~ 80, Spi tip (diki denderedzwa musoro tsono);
C American tsono: saizi yetsono 022 ~ 032, Ball Tip tsono (diki yakatenderera musoro tsono)
② Saizi yegomba retsono yetsono inofanira kuchinjwa maererano nemuenzaniso wetsono. Tsono diki-diki dzinoda kutsiviwa nendiro dzetsono dzine maburi madiki kudzivirira matambudziko akadai sekusvetuka-svetuka kana kudhirowa shinda panguva yekusona.
③Tvanza netsoka dzepurasitiki yekutsikirira uye imbwa dzekudyisa dzakafukidzwa nemapuranga epurasitiki. Panguva imwecheteyo, teerera kushandiswa kweimbwa dzakaita sedome, uye nekutsiviwa nenguva kwezvakakuvadzwa-zvakakuvadzwa zvikamu zvekudya, nezvimwewo, izvo zvinogona kuona kufambiswa kwakatsetseka kwezvidimbu zvakachekwa uye kuderedza kudhirowa kweshinda uye Matambudziko akadai sekupwanya uye kukuvadza jira rinoitika.
④ Kuisa glue kana kuwedzera adhesive lining kune yakasonwa kumucheto kwechimedu chakachekwa kunogona kuderedza kuoma kwekusona uye kuderedza kukuvadzwa kweshinda kunokonzerwa nemushini wekusona.
⑤Sarudza muchina webhatani regonhi rine blade yakatwasuka uye nebanga rekuzorora. Iyo blade yekufamba modhi inoshandisa kudzika pasi panzvimbo yekucheka yakachinjika kuvhura bhatani, iro rinogona kudzivirira zvinobudirira kuitika kwekudhirowa kweshinda.
3. Sewing marks
Ongororo yechikonzero: Kune marudzi maviri akajairwa emusono mamakisi: "centipede mamaki" uye "mazino mamakisi." "centipede marks" inokonzerwa neshinda iri pajira iri kudzvinywa mushure mekunge matinji asonewa, zvichiita kuti panosonwa nzvimbo isaenzane. Mimvuri inoratidzwa mushure mekuratidzira kwechiedza; "mazino mavanga" anokonzerwa nemupendero wemicheto yemucheka mutete, wakapfava uye wakareruka uchikweshwa kana kukweshwa nemichina yekudyisa yakaita sembwa dzekudyisa, tsoka dzekutsikirira, uye mahwendefa etsono. Tsanangudzo iri pachena.
"Centipede pattern" process solution:
① Edza kudzivirira kuita mitsara yakawanda yezvitaera zvakaunyana pajira, kuderedza kana kusashandisa mitsetse yekucheka mitsara yezvimiro, funga kushandisa mitsara yediagonal pachinzvimbo chemitsetse yakatwasuka uye yakachinjika muzvikamu zvinofanirwa kutemwa, uye dzivisa kucheka uchienda netsanga dzakatwasuka. ine dense tissue. Cheka mitsetse uye gadzira zvidimbu.
② Deredza kana kuwedzera huwandu hwenzvimbo: shandisa musono kupeta kuti ugadzirise mipendero yakasvibira uye sonesa jira nemutsara mumwechete, pasina kudzvanya kana kushoma kudzvanya kumusoro kwekushongedza.
③Usashandise tsono yekudyisa mudziyo kutakura machira. Sezvo michina yetsono mbiri yakashongedzerwa nemidziyo yekudyisa tsono, iwe unofanirwa kudzivirira kushandisa kaviri-tsono michina kutora mitsetse yakapetwa kaviri yekumusoro. Kana sitaira yacho iine dhizaini yekutora kaviri-mutsara wepamusoro, unogona kushandisa mushini wekusonesa wetsono imwe chete kutora tambo mbiri zvakasiyana.
④ Edza kucheka zvimedu pamwe chete netull kana kuti yakatwasuka diagonal nzira kudzikisa kutaridzika kwejira ripples.
⑤Sarudza shinda yakatetepa yekusonesa ine mapfundo mashoma uye yakatsetseka kuderedza nzvimbo inogarwa neshinda yekusonesa. Usashandise tsoka yekudzvanya ine magrooves ari pachena. Sarudza diki diki-muromo tsono yemuchina kana diki-gomba muchina tsono kuderedza kukuvadzwa kwemushini wetsono kune jira rejira.
⑥ Shandisa nzira yekuvharisa shinda shanu kana kucheka cheni pachinzvimbo chemusono wakatsetseka kuderedza kusvinwa kweshinda.
⑦ Gadzirisa kusimba kwe stitch uye kusunungura tambo yeshinda kuti uderedze shinda yekusonesa yakavanda pakati pemachira.
"Identation" maitiro ekugadzirisa:
① Sunungura kudzvanywa kwetsoka yekutsikirira, shandisa mazino ekudya ane dhaimondi kana domed, kana shandisa tsoka yepurasitiki yekutsikirira uye kudyisa mazino nerabha inodzivirira firimu kuderedza kukuvadzwa kwejira neanodyisa.
② Gadzirisa imbwa yekudyisa uye inotsikisa tsoka yakatwasuka kuitira kuti masimba embwa yekudyisa uye anotsikirira tsoka aenzane uye anomisana kudzivirira kukuvara kwejira.
③ Glue lining kumapendero emusono, kana kuisa bepa pane seams uko mamakisi ari nyore kuoneka, kuderedza kutaridzika kwemavara.
4. Stitch swing
Ongororo yechikonzero: Nekuda kwezvikamu zvakasununguka zvekudyisa machira emuchina wekusonesa, machira ekudyisa machira haana kugadzikana, uye kudzvanywa kwetsoka yekutsikirira kwakanyanyisa. Misono iri pamusoro pemucheka inokanganisa kutsvedza uye kuzununguka. Kana muchina wekusonesa ukabviswa wosonewa zvakare, maburi etsono anosiiwa zviri nyore, zvichiita kuti pave nekurasika kwezvinhu. .
Maitiro ekugadzirisa:
①Sarudza katsono kadiki nendiro yetsono ine maburi madiki.
② Tarisa uone kana ma screws embwa yekudyisa akasununguka.
③Simbisa tension zvishoma, gadzirisa density yematichi, uye wedzera tension yekutsikisa tsoka.
Chikonzero chekuongorora: Kana muchina wekusonesa wamiswa panguva yekusona, mafuta haakwanise kudzoka mugango remafuta nekukasira uye anonamatira pane tsono kuti asvibise zvidimbu zvakachekwa. Kunyanya machira esirika matete anogona kutora uye kunyura kubva pamuchina wekushandisa uye mazino ekudyisa kana akasonwa nemuchina wekusonesa unomhanya. Mafuta einjini yakadururwa.
Maitiro ekugadzirisa:
① Sarudza muchina wekusonesa ane yakanakisa kutakura mafuta sisitimu, kana yakanyatsogadzirwa yakavharwa mafuta ekufambisa muchina wekusona. Iyo tsono bhari yemuchina wekusonesa uyu wakagadzirwa nealloy uye yakaputirwa nechikamu chemakemikari agent pamusoro, iyo inogona kuramba kukweshera uye kupisa kwakanyanya, uye inogona kunyatso kudzivirira kurasika kwemafuta. . Iyo mafuta ekuunza vhoriyamu inogona kugadziridzwa otomatiki muchina chishandiso, asi mutengo wakakwira.
② Nguva dzose tarisa uye uchenese dunhu remafuta. Kana uchizora muchina wekusonesa, ingozadza hafu yebhokisi remafuta, uye wodzika pasi throttle yepombi yemafuta kuderedza huwandu hwemafuta anounzwa. Iyi zvakare inzira inoshanda yekudzivirira kurasika kwemafuta.
③Kudzikamisa kumhanya kwemotokari kunogona kuderedza kubuda kwemafuta.
④Chinja kumuchina wekusonesa oiri-micro-oiri.
Nguva yekutumira: Feb-26-2024