Maitiro ekushandisa iyo mana-point system kuita nyanzvi yekuongorora machira emucheka?

Iyo yakajairika yekuongorora nzira yejira ndeye "mana-point scoring method". Mune iyi "mapoinzi mana-mapoinzi", iyo yakakura mamakisi kune chero chirema chimwe chete ina. Hazvina mhosva kuti vangani vakaremara mujira, chibodzwa chemutsetse payadhi mutsara hachifanire kudarika mapoinzi mana.

Chikero chine mapoinzi mana chinogona kushandiswa kumachira akarukwa akarukwa, aine 1-4 mapoinzi akabviswa zvichienderana nehukuru uye kuoma kwechirema.

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Maitiro ekushandisa iyo mana-point system kuita nyanzvi yekuongorora machira emucheka?

Chiyero chezvibodzwa

1. Kukanganisa muwarp, weft uye mamwe mafambiro anozoongororwa zvichienderana neanotevera maitiro:

Imwe pfungwa: kureba kureba ndeye 3 inches kana pasi

Mapoinzi maviri: kureba kwakakura kupfuura masendimita matatu uye isingasviki 6 inches

Mapoinzi matatu: kureba kwekuremara kwakakura kupfuura masendimita matanhatu uye isingasviki 9 inches

Mapoinzi mana: kureba kwekureba kwakakura kupfuura 9 inches

2. The scoring musimboti of hurema:

A. Kubviswa kwezvose zvakakanganiswa newarp uye weft muyadhi imwe chete hazvipfuuri mapoinzi mana.

B. Pakukanganisa kwakanyanya, yadhi yega yega yehurema ichaverengerwa semapoinzi mana. Semuenzaniso: Makomba ese, maburi, zvisinei nedhayamita, anozopihwa mapoinzi mana.

C. Nokuda kwekuremara kunopfuurira, zvakadai se: rungs, kumucheto-ku-kumucheto kwemavara akasiyana, chisimbiso chakamanikana kana hupamhi hwejira risina kukwana, creases, dyeing isina kuenzana, nezvimwewo, yadhi imwe neimwe yekuremara inofanira kuverengwa semapoinzi mana.

D. Hapana mapoinzi achabviswa mukati me1 ″ yeselvage

E. Pasinei newarp kana weft, zvisinei kuti chikanganiso chii, musimboti unofanirwa kuoneka, uye mucherechedzo wakakodzera uchaderedzwa zvinoenderana nekuremara mamaki.

F. Kunze kwemitemo inokosha (yakadai sekuvhara nematepi ekunamatira), kazhinji chete rutivi rwepamberi rwemucheka wegrey unoda kuongororwa.

2. Kuongorora

1. Sampling maitiro:

1) AATCC yekuongorora uye sampling zviyero:

A. Nhamba yemasample: wedzera sikweya mudzi yehuwandu hwemayadhi nesere.

B. Nhamba yemasampling boxes: square root yehuwandu hwehuwandu hwemabhokisi.

2) Sampling zvinodiwa:

Kusarudzwa kwemapepa anoongororwa hakuna kurongeka zvachose.

Zvigayo zvemachira zvinodikanwa kuratidza inspector siripi yekurongedza kana ingangoita 80% yemaromburu mubatch akazara. Inspector achasarudza mapepa kuti aongororwe.

Kana muongorori angosarudza ma rolls kuti aongororwe, hapana kumwe kugadziridzwa kungaitwe kunhamba yemaromburu kuti aongororwe kana huwandu hwemapumburu akasarudzwa kuti aongororwe. Panguva yekuongorora, hapana yardage yejira ichatorwa kubva kune chero roll kunze kwekurekodha uye kutarisa ruvara.

Mipumburu yese yemachira inoongororwa inoiswa giredhi uye chibodzwa chinoongororwa.

2. Test score

1) Kuverengwa kwezvibodzwa

Muchidimbu, mushure mekunge mupumburu wega wega wejira waongororwa, zvibodzwa zvinogona kuwedzerwa. Zvadaro, giredhi rinoongororwa zvinoenderana nedanho rekugamuchirwa, asi sezvo zvisimbiso zvemachira zvakasiyana zvichifanirwa kuve nemazinga akasiyana ekugamuchirwa, kana fomula rinotevera richishandiswa kuverenga mamakisi ega ega rejira pamayadhi zana, inongoda kuverengerwa 100 masikweyayadhi Zvinoenderana nezvibodzwa zvakatsanangurwa pazasi, unogona kuita giredhi ongororo yeakasiyana machira zvisimbiso.

A = (Zvose zvibodzwa x 3600) / (Mayadhi akaongororwa x Rinochekwa jira upamhi) = mapoinzi pa100 square yadhi

2) Chiyero chekugamuchirwa chemhando dzakasiyana dzemachira

Mhando dzakasiyana dzemachira dzakakamurwa muzvikamu zvina zvinotevera

Type Rudzi rwejira Single Volume Scoring Kutsoropodza kwese
Mucheka wakarukwa
Ese machira akagadzirwa nevanhu, polyester /Nylon/Acetate Zvigadzirwa Shirt, machira akagadzirwa nevanhu, makushe akashata 20 16
DenimCanvas Poplin/Oxford mitsetse kana gingham shirting, machira akaruka akaitwa nevanhu, machira eshinda, ane mitsetse kana akachekwa/dhayi ye indigo yarn, machira emhando yepamusoro, jacquards/Dobby corduroy/velvet/stretch denim/Artificial Fabrics/Blends 28 20
Linen, muslin Linen, muslin 40 32
Dopioni sirika / chiedza silika Dopioni sirika / chiedza silika 50 40
Mucheka wakarukwa
Ese machira akagadzirwa nevanhu, polyester/nylon/Acetate Zvigadzirwa Rayon, mvere dzakashata, silika yakasanganiswa 20 16
Micheka yese yehunyanzvi Jacquard / Dobby corduroy, spun rayon, machira emvere, dhayi indigo shinda, velvet / spandex 25 20
Basic knitted fabric Combed cotton/blend cotton 30 25
Basic knitted fabric Kadhi jira rekotoni 40 32

Mupumburu mumwechete wejira unodarika chibodzwa chakatarwa uchaiswa mukirasi yechipiri.

Kana avhareji yezvibodzwa zvemujenya wese ikadarika iyo yakataurwa, mijenya ichanzi yatadza kuongorora.

3. Inspection Score: Zvimwe Zvinofungwa Pakuongorora Micheka Magiredhi

Zvakadzokororwa kukanganisa:

1), chero chinodzokororwa kana chinodzokororwa chakaremara chichaita chakadzokororwa kuremara. Mapoinzi mana anofanirwa kupihwa payadhi yega yega yejira nekuda kwekuremara kwakadzokororwa.

2) Hazvina mhosva kuti chirema chii, chero mupumburu une mayadhi anopfuura gumi emucheka une hurema hwakadzokororwa unofanirwa kutorwa seusina kukodzera.

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Maitiro ekushandisa iyo mana-point system kuita nyanzvi yekuongorora machira emachira
Kukanganisa kwehupamhi hwakazara:

3) Maroll ane anopfuura mana akazara-hupamhi hurema mune yega yega 100y2 haizoyerwe seyekutanga-kirasi zvigadzirwa.

4) Mipumburu ine zvinopfuura chimwe chirema chikuru pamayadhi gumi emutsetse paavhareji achaonekwa seasina kukodzera, zvisinei kuti hurema hungani huri mu100y.

5) Mipumburu ine kukanganisa kukuru mukati me3y yemusoro wejira kana muswe wemucheka unofanirwa kuverengerwa seusingakodzeri. Hurema hwakakura huchatariswa mapoinzi matatu kana mana.

6) Kana jira racho riine tambo dziri pachena dzakasununguka kana dzakasimba pane imwe selvedge, kana kune ripples, wrinkles, creases kana creases pamuviri mukuru wejira, mamiriro ezvinhu aya anoita kuti jira rive risina kuenzana kana jira rinopedzwa nenzira yakajairika. . Mavhoriyamu akadaro haagone kuverengerwa sekirasi yekutanga.

7) Paunenge uchiongorora mupumburu wejira, tarisa upamhi hwayo kanenge katatu pakutanga, pakati, uye kumagumo. Kana hupamhi hwemupumburu wejira huri pedyo nehupamhi hushoma hunotsanangurwa kana hupamhi hwemucheka hauna kufanana, ipapo nhamba yekuongorora kwehupamhi hwepumburu inofanira kuwedzerwa.

8) Kana mupumburu wakafara uri pasi peiyo yakasarudzika yekutenga upamhi hwekutenga, mupumburu unozoonekwa seusingakodzeri.

9) Pamachira akarukwa, kana hupamhi huri 1 inch yakafara pane yakatsanangurwa kutenga hupamhi, mupumburu unozoonekwa seisina kukodzera. Nekudaro, kune jira rakarukwa rakarukwa, kunyangwe riine 2 inches yakafara pane yakatsanangurwa hupamhi, inogona kuve yakakodzera. Pamachira akarukwa, kana hupamhi huri 2 inches yakafara pane yakatarwa kutenga hupamhi, mupumburu ucharambwa. Nekudaro, kune iyo furemu yakarukwa jira, kunyangwe iri 3 inches yakafara pane yakatsanangurwa upamhi, inogona kutorwa seyakagamuchirwa.

10) Kufara kwejira kunoreva chinhambwe kubva kune kunze selvage kune imwe mugumo kusvika kune yekunze selvage kune imwe mugumo.

Rinochekwa jira upamhi ndiyo hupamhi yakayerwa pasina selvedge uye/kana stitcher pinholes, isina kudhindwa, isina kuvharwa kana zvimwe zvisina kugadziriswa zvikamu zvemuviri wejira.

Ongororo yemusiyano weruvara:

11) Musiyano wemuvara pakati pemapumburu nemaromburu, mabhechi uye mabhechi haafanire kuderera pane iwo mana mazinga muAATCC grey scale.

12) Munguva yekuongorora machira, tora 6 ~ 10 inch yakafara ruvara musiyano machira mabhodhi kubva kune yega yega roll, inspector achashandisa aya machira ematehwe kuenzanisa mutsauko weruvara mukati memupumburu mumwechete kana musiyano wemavara pakati pemapumburu akasiyana.

13) Musiyano wemuvara pakati pekumucheto-ku-kumucheto, kumucheto-kusvika-pakati kana jira musoro-kune-jira muswe mumupumburu mumwechete hauzove wakaderera pane yechina nhanho muAATCC grey scale. Pamapumburu akaongororwa, yadhi yega yega yejira ine mavara-akasiyana akaremara achayerwa mapoinzi mana payadhi.

14) Kana jira rinozoongororwa risingaenderane nemasampula akabvumidzwa akapihwa pachine nguva, mutsauko weruvara unofanirwa kuve wakaderera pane iyo 4-5 nhanho patafura yegrey scale, zvikasadaro batch iyi yezvinhu ichaonekwa seisina kukodzera.

Kureba

15) Kana hurefu chaihwo hwemupumburu mumwe chete hukatsauka neanopfuura 2% kubva paurefu hwakaratidzwa pachiratidziro, mupumburu uchaonekwa seusingakodzeri. Pamipumburu ine kutsauka kureba, zvibodzwa zvadzo hazvichaongororwa, asi zvinofanirwa kuratidzwa pamushumo wekuongorora.

16) Kana huwandu hwehurefu hwemasampuli ese asina kujairika hwakatsauka ne1% kana kupfuura kubva paurefu hwakaratidzwa pane iyo label, batch yese yezvinhu ichaonekwa seisina kukodzera.

Kujoinha chikamu:

17) Pamachira akarukwa, mupumburu wese wejira unogona kubatanidzwa nezvikamu zvakawanda, kunze kwekunge zvakatemwa muchibvumirano chekutenga, kana mupumburu wejira uine chikamu chakabatana nehurefu husingasviki 40y, mupumburu unozotemwa. haana kukodzera.

Pamachira akarukwa, mupumburu wose unogona kugadzirwa nezvikamu zvakawanda zvakabatanidzwa, kunze kwekunge zvatsanangurwa neimwe nzira muchibvumirano chekutenga, kana mupumburu une chikamu chakabatanidzwa chinorema isingasviki makirogiramu makumi matatu, mupumburu uchaverengerwa seusingakodzeri.

Weft oblique uye bow weft:

18) Kune machira akarukwa uye akarukwa, ese akadhindwa machira kana machira ane mitsetse ane anopfuura 2% bow weft uye diagonal folds; uye machira ese akaipa ane anopfuura 3% skew haagone kuverengerwa seyekutanga-kirasi.

Cheka jira uchitevedza nzira yeweft, uye edza kunamatira kune gwara rekukotama weft kusvika pazvinobvira;

Bvisa shinda imwe neimwe;

Kusvikira weft yakakwana yadhonzwa;

sxeryfd (3)

Maitiro ekushandisa iyo mana-point system kuita nyanzvi yekuongorora machira emachira

sxeryfd (4)

Peta nepakati uchitevedza warp, nemicheto ichipeperetswa, woyera chinhambwe chiri pakati penzvimbo yepamusoro nenzvimbo yakaderera.

Maitiro ekushandisa iyo mana-point system kuita nyanzvi yekuongorora machira emachira

19) Pamachira akarukwa, ese akadhindwa uye ane mitsetse machira ane skew yakakura kupfuura 2%, uye ese machira ewick ane skew yakakura kupfuura 3% haigone kuverengerwa sekirasi yekutanga.

Kune machira akarukwa, ese machira ewick uye akadhindwa machira ane skew yakakura kupfuura 5% haigone kuverengerwa semhando yekutanga zvigadzirwa.

Mucheka hwema:

21) Mipumburu yese inoburitsa kunhuwa haizopfuure kuongororwa.

Gomba:

22), kuburikidza nekuremara kunotungamira mukukuvadzwa kwejira, zvisinei nehukuru hwekukuvara, inofanirwa kuverengerwa semapoinzi mana. Gomba rinofanira kusanganisira shinda mbiri kana kupfuura dzakatyoka.

Inzwa:

23) Tarisa kunzwa kwejira nekuienzanisa nereferensi sampuli. Kana pakaitika mutsauko wakakura, mupumburu uchaverengerwa sekirasi yechipiri, ine zvibodzwa zve4 payadhi. Kana manzwiro eese ma rolls asingasviki padanho rereferensi sampuli, kuongororwa kuchamiswa uye mamakisi haazoongororwa kwenguva pfupi.

Density:

24) Mukuongorora kwakazara, kanenge kaviri kuongorora kunobvumirwa, uye ± 5% inobvumirwa, kana zvisina kudaro ichaonekwa seisina kukodzera (kunyange isingashandisi kune 4-point system, inofanira kunyorwa).

Gram uremu:

25) Panguva yekuongorora kwakazara, kuongorora kunenge kuviri (kune tembiricha uye humidity zvinodiwa) kunobvumidzwa, uye ± 5% inotenderwa, zvikasadaro ichaonekwa seyakaomeswa chigadzirwa (kunyangwe isingashande kune mana-point system. , inofanira kurekodhwa).

Reel, kurongedza zvinodiwa:

1) Hapana zvakakosha zvinodikanwa, anenge 100 mayadhi pakureba uye asingapfuuri 150 mapaundi pakurema.

2) Hapana zvakakosha zvinodiwa, zvinofanirwa kudzokororwa, uye reel yepepa haifanirwe kukuvadzwa panguva yekufambisa.

3) Iyo dhayamita yechubhu yepepa ndeye 1.5 ″-2.0 ″.

4) Pamigumo miviri yemucheka wejira, chikamu chakafumurwa hachifaniri kudarika 1 ".

5) Usati wakungurutsa jira, gadzirisa kuruboshwe, pakati uye kurudyi nzvimbo neadhesive tepi pazasi 4 ″.

6) Mushure memupumburu, kuitira kudzivirira mupumburu kuti usasununguke, isa 12 ″ tepi kugadzirisa 4 nzvimbo.

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Nguva yekutumira: Jul-31-2022

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