Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, ngokunyuka kolwazi lokukhuselwa kokusingqongileyo phakathi koluntu lwasekhaya kunye nokusasazwa okuqhubekayo kokusetyenziswa kobutyebi kunye nemiba yongcoliseko lokusingqongileyo kwifashoni okanye kwishishini lempahla ngokusebenzisa imidiya yoluntu ngaphakathi nakwamanye amazwe, abathengi abasaqhelananga nedatha ethile.Ngokomzekelo, ishishini lempahla lelesibini ngobukhulu ehlabathini, likwindawo yesibini kwimizi-mveliso yeoli.Umzekelo, ishishini lefashoni livelisa i-20% yamanzi amdaka ehlabathi kunye ne-10% yokukhutshwa kwekhabhoni yehlabathi rhoqo ngonyaka.
Nangona kunjalo, omnye umba obalulekileyo ngokulinganayo ubonakala ungaziwa kubathengi abaninzi.Oko kukuthi: ukusetyenziswa kweekhemikhali kunye nolawulo kwishishini lelaphu kunye nempahla.
Iikhemikhali ezilungileyo?Iikhemikhali ezimbi?
Xa kufikwa kwiikhemikhali kushishino olulukiweyo, abathengi abaninzi abaqhelekileyo banxulumanisa uxinzelelo kunye nobukho bezinto ezinobuthi neziyingozi ezishiywe kwiimpahla zabo, okanye umfanekiso weefektri zempahla ezingcolisa iindlela zamanzi zendalo ezinobuninzi bamanzi amdaka.Uluvo alulunganga.Nangona kunjalo, bambalwa abathengi abaphonononga nzulu indima edlalwa yimichiza kwizinto ezilukiweyo ezifana nempahla kunye namalaphu asekhaya ahombisa imizimba nobomi bethu.
Yeyiphi into yokuqala eyathi yakutsala amehlo xa wawuvula iwardrobe yakho?Umbala.Ubomvu obomvu, ozolileyo, oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, omnyama ozinzileyo, omfusa ongaqondakaliyo, omthubi oqaqambileyo, ongwevu obukekayo, omhlophe qwa… Le mibala yempahla oyisebenzisayo ukubonisa inxenye yobuntu bakho ayinakufezekiswa ngaphandle kwemichiza, okanye ngokungqongqo, akulula kangako.Ukuthatha umzekelo omfusa njengomzekelo, kwimbali, iimpahla ezimfusa zazidla ngokuba zezobukhosi okanye udidi oluphezulu kuba iidayi ezimfusa zazinqabile kwaye zibiza ngokwendalo.Kwakungekho de kwaphakathi kwinkulungwane ye-19 apho ingcali yamachiza eselula yaseBritani yafumanisa ngempazamo ikhompawundi emfusa ngexesha lokwenziwa kwequinine, yaye umbala omfusa ngokuthe ngcembe waba ngumbala onokuwonwatyiswa ngabantu abaqhelekileyo.
Ukongeza ekunikeni umbala empahleni, iikhemikhali zikwadlala indima ebalulekileyo ekwandiseni imisebenzi ekhethekileyo yamalaphu.Umzekelo, eyona siseko isisiseko sokungangeni manzi, ukunxiba-resistant kunye neminye imisebenzi.Ukusuka kumbono obanzi, inyathelo ngalinye lokuvelisa iimpahla ukusuka kwimveliso yelaphu ukuya kwimveliso yokugqibela yempahla inxulumene ngokusondeleyo neekhemikhali.Ngamanye amazwi, imichiza lutyalo-mali olungenakuthintelwa kushishino lwamalaphu lwangoku.Ngokwe-Global Chemicals Outlook II ka-2019 ekhutshwe yiNkqubo yokusiNgqongileyo yeZizwe eziManyeneyo, kulindeleke ukuba ngo-2026, ilizwe litye i-31.8 yeebhiliyoni zeerandi kwimichiza yelaphu, xa kuthelekiswa ne-19 yeebhiliyoni zeerandi ngo-2012. Imfuno yehlabathi yempahla eluka nempahla isakhula, ngakumbi kumazwe asakhasayo nakwimimandla.
Nangona kunjalo, iingcamango ezimbi zabathengi malunga neekhemikhali kwishishini lempahla aziveli nje.Iziko ngalinye lemizi-mveliso yamalaphu kwihlabathi jikelele (kubandakanywa namaziko okuvelisa amalaphu ngaphambili) ngokungenakuthintelwa lifumana indawo yokuprinta kunye nokudaya amanzi amdaka “edayiwe” kwiindlela zamanzi ezikufutshane kwinqanaba elithile lophuhliso.Kushishino lokwenziwa kwamalaphu kumazwe athile asaphuhlayo, oku kunokuba yinyani eqhubekayo.Imiboniso yemilambo enemibala ibe yenye yonxulumano olubi lwabathengi kunye nemveliso yelaphu kunye nempahla.
Kwelinye icala, umba weentsalela zemichiza ezimpahleni, ingakumbi iintsalela zezinto eziyityhefu neziyingozi, uphakamise inkxalabo kubathengi abathile ngempilo nokhuseleko lwempahla eluka.Oku kubonakala kakhulu kubazali abasandul’ ukuzalwa.Ukuthatha i-formaldehyde njengomzekelo, ngokubhekiselele kumhlobiso, uninzi loluntu luyayazi ingozi ye-formaldehyde, kodwa bambalwa abantu abaqwalasela umxholo we-formaldehyde xa kuthengwa iimpahla.Kwinkqubo yokuvelisa iimpahla, izixhobo zokudaya kunye ne-resin yokugqiba i-resin esetyenziselwa ukulungiswa kombala kunye nokuthintela imibimbi ikakhulu iqulethe i-formaldehyde.Ukugqithiswa kwe-formaldehyde kwiimpahla kunokubangela ukucaphuka okunamandla kwesikhumba kunye nomgudu wokuphefumula.Ukunxiba iimpahla ezine-formaldehyde egqithisileyo ixesha elide kunokubangela ukudumba kokuphefumula kunye ne-dermatitis.
Iikhemikhali ze-textile omele uziqwalasele
i-formaldehyde
Isetyenziselwa ukugqibezela amalaphu ukunceda ukulungisa imibala kunye nokuthintela imibimbi, kodwa kukho iinkxalabo malunga nobudlelwane phakathi kwe-formaldehyde kunye nomhlaza othile.
intsimbi enzima
Idayi kunye neepigments zinokuqulatha iintsimbi ezinzima ezifana nelothe, imercury, cadmium, kunye nechromium, ezinye zazo eziyingozi kwinkqubo yemithambo-luvo kunye nezintso.
Alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether
Ixhaphake ukufunyanwa kwi-surfactants, ii-agent ezigqobhozayo, izicoci, izinto ezithambisayo, njl.njl., xa ungena emanzini, iyingozi kwezinye izinto eziphila emanzini, ibangele ungcoliseko lokusingqongileyo kwaye yonakalise imo engqongileyo.
Zalela azo dyes
Idayi ezithintelweyo zigqithiselwa eluswini zisuka kwilaphu elidaywe, kwaye phantsi kweemeko ezithile, ukusabela kokunciphisa kwenzeka, kukhulula i-carcinogenic amines aromatics.
I-Benzene chloride kunye ne-toluene chloride
Intsalela kwi-polyester kunye namalaphu ayo adityanisiweyo, anobungozi ebantwini kunye nokusingqongileyo, kunokubangela umhlaza kunye nokukhubazeka kwezilwanyana.
I-phthalate ester
Iplastiki eqhelekileyo.Emva kokunxibelelana nabantwana, ngakumbi emva kokumunca, kulula ukungena emzimbeni kwaye kubangele ingozi
Le yinyaniso yokuba kwelinye icala, iikhemikhali zingamagalelo abalulekileyo, kwaye kwelinye icala, ukusetyenziswa ngokungafanelekanga kweekhemikhali kunomngcipheko omkhulu wokusingqongileyo kunye nempilo.Kulo mxholo,ulawulo kunye nokubeka iliso kwiikhemikhali kube ngumba ongxamisekileyo nobalulekileyo ojongene neshishini lempahla yengubo kunye nempahla, enxulumene nophuhliso oluzinzileyo lweshishini.
Ulawulo lwemichiza kunye nokubeka iliso
Ngapha koko, kwimigaqo yamazwe ahlukeneyo, kukho ugxininiso kwiikhemikhali ezilukiweyo, kwaye kukho izithintelo ezifanelekileyo zelayisensi, iindlela zokuvavanya, kunye neendlela zokuhlola imigangatho yokukhupha kunye noluhlu oluthintelweyo lokusebenzisa lwekhemikhali nganye.Ukuthatha i-formaldehyde njengomzekelo, umgangatho wesizwe waseTshayina we-GB18401-2010 "IiNkcazelo zoBugcisa boKhuseleko oluSiseko kwiiMveliso zeSizwe zeTeluphu" ichaza ngokucacileyo ukuba umxholo we-formaldehyde kwiimpahla kunye nempahla akufanele idlule i-20mg / kg yeKlasi A (imveliso yosana kunye nabantwana abancinci), 75mg / kg kuKlasi B (iimveliso ezidibana ngqo nolusu lomntu), kunye ne-300mg/kg yeKlasi C (iimveliso ezingadibani ngqo nolusu lomntu).Nangona kunjalo, kukho ukungafani okuphawulekayo kwimimiselo phakathi kwamazwe ahlukeneyo, okukhokelela ekunqongopheni kwemigangatho edibeneyo kunye neendlela zokulawulwa kweekhemikhali kwinkqubo yokuphunyezwa yokwenene, ibe ngumceli mngeni wokulawula imichiza kunye nokubeka iliso.
Kule minyaka ilishumi idlulileyo, ishishini nalo liye lasebenza ngakumbi ekuzijongeni nasekuthatheni amanyathelo kulawulo lwalo lweekhemikhali.I-Zero Discharge yeSiseko seMichiza enobungozi (i-ZDHC Foundation), esekwe kwi-2011, ngummeli wentshukumo edibeneyo yoshishino.Umsebenzi wayo kukuxhobisa iimpahla ezilukiweyo, iimpahla, ufele, kunye nezihlangu zezihlangu, abathengisi, kunye neentambo zabo zokubonelela ukuphumeza ezona ndlela zilungileyo kulawulo lweekhemikhali ezizinzileyo kwikhonkco lexabiso, kwaye sizame ukufezekisa injongo yokukhutshwa kwezero yeekhemikhali eziyingozi ngokusebenzisana, umgangatho. uphuhliso, kunye nokuphunyezwa.
Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, iibrendi ezikhontrakthi kunye ne-ZDHC Foundation ziye zanda ukusuka kwi-6 yokuqala ukuya kwi-30, kubandakanywa iimpawu zefashoni eyaziwayo kwihlabathi jikelele njenge-Adidas, i-H & M, i-NIKE, kunye ne-Kaiyun Group.Phakathi kwezi mpawu ziphambili kushishino kunye namashishini, ulawulo lweekhemikhali luye lwaba yinto ebalulekileyo yezicwangciso zophuhliso oluzinzileyo, kunye neemfuno ezihambelanayo zibekwe phambili kubaboneleli babo.
Ngokunyuka kwemfuno yoluntu yempahla ehambelana nokusingqongileyo kunye nenempilo, iinkampani kunye neempawu ezibandakanya ulawulo lwemichiza kwingqwalasela yeqhinga kunye nokubandakanyeka ngokubonakalayo kwimisebenzi eyenziwayo ukubonelela ngempahla ehambelana nokusingqongileyo kunye nezempilo kwimarike ngokungathandabuzekiyo banokukhuphisana kwemarike.Kule ndawo,inkqubo yoqinisekiso oluthembekileyo kunye neelebhile zesatifikethi zinokunceda iibrendi kunye namashishini anxibelelane ngokufanelekileyo nabathengi kwaye aseke ukuthembana.
Enye yeenkqubo ezivunyiweyo ngoku zokuvavanywa kwezinto ezinobungozi kunye nesiqinisekiso kwishishini nguMGANGATHO WE-100 ngu-OEKO-TEX ®。 Luvavanyo lwehlabathi jikelele noluzimeleyo lovavanyo kunye nenkqubo yoqinisekiso eqhuba uvavanyo lwezinto eziyingozi kuzo zonke imathiriyeli ekrwada elukiweyo, esele igqityiwe kwaye igqityiwe. iimveliso, kunye nazo zonke izinto ezincedisayo kwinkqubo yokucubungula.Ayibandakanyi kuphela iimfuno ezibalulekileyo zomthetho kunye nolawulo, kodwa iquka izinto zekhemikhali ezinobungozi kwimpilo kodwa zingalawulwa ngumthetho, kunye neeparitha zonyango ezigcina impilo yabantu.
I-ecosystem yeshishini ifunde kuvavanyo oluzimeleyo kunye nequmrhu loqinisekiso lweempahla ze-Swiss kunye neemveliso zesikhumba, TestEX (WeChat: TestEX-OEKO-TEX), ukuba imigangatho yokufumanisa kunye nemilinganiselo yokunciphisa i-STANDARD 100 kwiimeko ezininzi zingqongqo kunelizwe elisebenzayo kwaye imigangatho yehlabathi, isathatha i-formaldehyde njengomzekelo.Imfuno yeemveliso zeentsana kunye nabantwana abancinci abangaphantsi kweminyaka emithathu ubudala ayifuni ukufunyanwa, kunye noqhagamshelwano oluthe ngqo kunye neemveliso zesikhumba ezingadlulanga i-75mg / kg kunye nokungadibanisi ngokuthe ngqo kunye neemveliso zesikhumba ezingadlulanga i-150mg / kg, izinto zokuhombisa aziyi kudlula i-300mg / ikg.Ukongeza, i-STANDARD 100 ikwabandakanya ukuya kuthi ga kwi-300 yezinto ezinokuba yingozi.Ngoko ke, ukuba ubona ilebhile ye-STANDARD 100 kwiimpahla zakho, oko kuthetha ukuba iphumelele uvavanyo olungqongqo lweekhemikhali eziyingozi.
Kwiintengiselwano ze-B2B, ileyibhile ye-STANDARD 100 nayo yamkelwa lishishini njengobungqina bokuhanjiswa.Ngale ndlela, uvavanyo oluzimeleyo kunye namaziko esiqinisekiso afana ne-TTS asebenza njengebhulorho yokuthembana phakathi kweebrendi kunye nabavelisi bazo, evumela intsebenziswano engcono phakathi kwamaqela omabini.I-TTS ikwaliqabane le-ZDHC, inceda ekukhuthazeni injongo yokukhupha iikhemikhali eziyingozi kushishino lwempahla elukiweyo.
Kuko konke,akukho mahluko ulungile okanye ungalunganga phakathi kweekhemikhali ezilukiweyo.Undoqo ulele kulawulo nokubekwa kweliso, engumcimbi obalulekileyo onxulumene nokusingqongileyo kunye nempilo yabantu.Ifuna unyuso oludibeneyo lwamaqela ahlukeneyo anoxanduva, ukubekwa emgangathweni kwemithetho yesizwe kunye nokulungelelaniswa kwemithetho nemimiselo phakathi kwamazwe ahlukeneyo kunye nemimandla, ukuzilawula kunye nokuphuculwa koshishino, kunye nokusebenza okusebenzayo kwamashishini kwimveliso, Kukho imfuneko enkulu yokuba abathengi baphakamise iimfuno eziphezulu zokusingqongileyo kunye nempilo yempahla yabo.Ngaloo ndlela kuphela izenzo "ezingenabuthi" zeshishini lefashini zibe yinyani kwixesha elizayo.
Ixesha lokuposa: Apr-14-2023